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Vive LA France

Posted by MDugard Jul 7, 2005

Robbie McEwen of Australia won today's fifth stage of the Tour de France. Despite the valiant efforts of a four-man breakaway, the peloton reeled them in 10k from the finish. McEwen edged Tom Boonen by half-a-wheel length for the victory. Lance Armstrong finished well back in the pack and remained in yellow.Two things made today unique: Armstrong showed up at the starting line wearing his Discovery Channel team jersey instead of the racer's yellow. It was a salute to Dave Zabriskie, who would still be wearing yellow if he hadn't crashed during the team time trial. It was also a calculated maneuver to repair his fractured relationship with Zabriskie (and perhaps other American riders like Floyd Landis who once rode alongside Armstrong) whom he has silently disparaged. Armstrong knew Tour organizers would change into yellow, but the symbolism was nonetheless powerful. Don't be surprised to see Zabriskie riding for Discovery Channel one day in the future.The other off occurrence was the sight of Team CSC crashing, then adding insult to injury by having a musette bag get tangled in a wheel during a feed zone. That's not saying the wheels are falling off at CSC, but their composure is certainly ruffled.My plan today, if you could call it a plan, was to give Bob Babbitt a lift to Charles de Gaulle Airport then drive into Paris to have some papers notarized. The timing was dicey -- with an early afternoon start, it would be a rush to dash into Paris, stand in line at the American Consulate (it had to be an American notary, I was told), and battle traffic back to Chambord. At the very least, I hoped to make it to Montargis for the finish. It was not to be.Spent the night at the de Gaulle Sheraton, a delicate building constructed between airport terminals. The design is taken from that of a ship, and from a distance it appears to be a great prow slicing the terminals' concrete wave. Frankly, I loved the place, and got up early for a sauna and run before striking off for Paris. Meanwhile, Babbitt's Tour adventure had come to an end, and it was a bit sad bidding him adieu. He's been in France for five days, which is a very long time to cover a normal event. But the Tour is so epic and Herculean -- so oversized compared to anything else out there (in size and organization it is literally like conducting a Super Bowl in a different town for 23 days staight) -- that his five days merely marked the beginning of a great adventure. One can only imagine how the riders find the strength to keep going, day after day.As I left the airport I watched the beginning of the American Tour onslaught: bike boxes from Miami, watched over protectively by two elderly men who've come as part of a tour group; college students wearing Discovery Channel team t-shirts; and, somewhat bothersome, a reed-thin fellow with gray hair and a weak chin who bragged to his companion about walking out of a restaurant because "I demand great service." Buddy, you've come to the wrong place. The service is fine, the food is excellent, but there's not a French waiter in the country who's likely to kiss anyone's butt anytime soon.Traffic was horrendous, so I took the Metro from the outskirts of Paris. Got off at the Place de l'Concorde (by the way, I've been mangling some of the French in my dispatches. Sorry about that. I'm trying. I'm really trying) and stood along the same stretch of roadway the riders will pass on the Tour's final days. I gazed upon that spot in the exact center of the Champs Elysees where the winner will hear his country's national anthem (sadly, today it was covered by a reviewing stand and bleachers, in anticipation of Paris being named host of the 2012 Games. London's victory saw those bleachers come down in a hurry). It was strange to be here when the Tour is not. I had been distant from the race for just a few hours, but already I longed to get back.Again, this was not to be. The line at the Consulate was long, a collection of lost passports, overstayed visas, and un-notarized documents. I didn't make any friends when I mistakenly hopped the line and skipped past a couple dozen people who'd been fuming about inefficient bureaucracy since the crack of dawn. Suffice to say, I went to the end of the line.OK. Two-thirty pm. Got the documents signed. A rather witty consular official who went by the name of Mr. Smith made the process surprisingly lighthearted. But it was too late to make Montargis, so I settled into a café to watch the European feed. I booked a room in a nearby hotel, with plans (NEW plans) to watch the race, write this piece, then take a morning run along the Seine tomorrow before striking out for the start. All went well. Watched the race, settled in to write, etc. That's when I discovered that I'd left those documents (those precious documents that compelled me to detour to Paris in the first place) back at the café.I should point out that I'm writing all this off French TV, trying to look flawless and smart while I crib quotes from riders 150 miles away. The process makes me long for the proximity of the Tour; the clamor of the crowds, the sweaty arrival of the peloton, that telltale gasp from the crowd when something wondrous or terrible happens in the peloton. Today was supposed to be a boring stage, one without drama or pizzazz. But really, there's no such thing at the Tour. It's an addictive narcotic to watch it in person. The hustle-bustle of Paris (Vespas, honking horns, cigarette smoke, fat sweating tourists of a hundred nations, and, trying to look like I belong when I know that I'm a tourist like everyone else) is more cosmopolitan than the Tour's rural routes. But it's nowhere near as cool.So I'm in the café, pretty much jumping up and down with joy when Lance Armstrong asks French TV if he can answer interview questions in English. They say yes, and I figure I'll get a unique take on events. But as soon as he begins speaking, they dub his comments into French. I didn't hear a word.Tomorrow's stage is a 100-miler from Troyes to Nancy. The route will be hillier than today, with the start of the Alsace forests. Look for more breakaway's like that four-man group of today, because now is the time at the Tour when anonymous men become heroes.Tomorrow also marks the peloton's entrance into the Champagne region, which will mean a rocking media buffet. On a more somber note, Nancy and nearby Verdun were the sites of pivotal battles in the two World Wars. I may never pass this way again, so I plan to take in all the history I can.As for the documents, I raced back to the café and found them, safe and secure.

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Thundering Down

Posted by MDugard Jul 6, 2005

Whew. Just when I thought Dave Zabriskie was safely back in yellow…By now most of you have seen it on OLN, but Zabriskie's crash in the final kilometers of today's time trial was just the sort of providence Lance Armstrong needs to win his seventh straight Tour de France. The quirky, shy Zabriskie has a history of crashing, and it was painful to see him go down so hard once again. His face was drawn and pale as he rolled through the finish area. It was as if he had lost a loved one. And, in a way, he did.Funny how some guys always find a way to crash, and some guys always find a way to win.CSC was always the odds-on favorite to win the team time trial. They have the unity, talent, and confidence to beat almost anyone. Their lead through the early time checks was impressive enough to think that they were cruising. But Lance Armstrong made it clear in a post-race interview that it was all part of his plan. "We knew the race was going to come down to the last 20 kilometers," he said. "The newly paved road, flat course, and relatively straight path were signs that there would be no big time gaps. Our plan was to stay comfortable early, then push hard into the finish."Lance knows how to beat a guy when he's down. He dismissed Zabriskie as "a great young rider of the future." Daming praise, it pretty much means that Zabriskie will remain in his rear view mirror for the rest of the Tour.Lance is a straight shooter. He looks you in the eye when you ask him a question. His answers are blunt and straightforward, sometimes laced with wry humor. So when the question of strategy arose – namely, would he try to stay in yellow for the rest of the race? – his deflection was odd. He passed the question over to team manager Johann Bruyneel, who hemmed and hawed about the difficulty of protecting the yellow jersey for the next 17 stages. Then the old Lance returned. "I'm gonna' put a little pressure on him to let me keep it."Zabriskie started the day two seconds up on Armstrong. His team, CSC, finished just two seconds behind Armstrong's. During a team time trial, all team members get the exact same time as the first member to cross the line. Logically, Zabriskie and Armstrong should be tied for yellow. So why is Lance wearing the maillot jaune? Because Zabriskie crashed into the barricades before crossing under the triangular red banner denoting just one kilometer remaining. The rule states that a rider only gets the same time as his teammates if he has passed under the flame rouge. As it was, Zabriskie lost 30 more seconds and dropped to ninth.I like a good rivalry. It was – and remains – my fervent desire that Lance Armstrong go hammer and tongs with another rider this year. I was hoping it would be Floyd Landis or Levi Leipheimer (the great irony would be Bobby Julich, who was considered the great hope of American cycling until Lance's 1999 victory rendered him anonymous). But if someone's going to have a go, they need to make a move soon. The closest real threat is Alexandre Vinokourov, 81 seconds back in seventh place. Floyd Landis is a desultory 20th, apparently saddled with a team that looks stronger on paper than in reality. Ivan Basso is 10th, some 86 seconds back, but Armstrong can crush him in time trials (there's one left. It's a 32-miler on the penultimate day), so the affable Italian isn't really a factor. So who's going to take a chance at Armstrong? I'm betting on his old nemesis. Jan Ullrich, who's always good for a fight. That would be some battle if Ullrich could manage to make up the 1:36 deficit.The scene after today's finish was madness. Fans mingled in with the Tour procession, clutching pens and camcorders as they clamored to touch the riders. It was hard to watch as young children battled with grown adults for access. Actual, bona fide paparazzi were in attendance to snap Sheryl and Lance. Over at the CSC bus, a mournful Bjarne Riis spoke in hushed tones about Zabriskie's pratfall. The sky was cloudy and threatening rain, which only added to the ominous feel. This was the biggest crowd since the Tour began Saturday, though it will be dwarfed in the weeks to come. Crazy to think of what lies ahead.Don't have a place to sleep tonight. That's a common theme here, and I brought a sleeping bag just in case I need to bunk in a pasture. But the wind is howling outside the media tent, rain is going to come soon enough and I'd like to stay dry. It's interesting: When most people (me included) think of France, they think of Paris. Or maybe Provence. But not all of France has a cosmopolitan vibe. Most of the country is as undeveloped as the South Dakota prairie, and just as laced with farmland. There are no Marriott's or even Motel 6 off every freeway exit (and for the most part, there are no freeways). And Expedia doesn't take reservations for most of these small towns -- I checked. But I have hope that some quaint country inn will have a room and a hearty petit dejeuner with dark black coffee in the morning. And without hope we are nothing, right?I'm going to take a small break from the Tour tomorrow morning. I need to dash into Paris and wrap up some business. Then it's a sprint back down the A6 in time for the finish. Actually, if all goes well, I'll be back in time for the 1:15 start in Chambord. I had promised myself I wouldn't go into Paris until the Tour arrives July 23, but it will be a nice change of pace. Maybe I'll see Tom and Katie standing atop the Eiffel Tower.Tomorrow's stage travels 183 kilometers from Chambord to Montargis. The route is as level as the Bonneville Salt Flats. Lance predicts that Tom Boonen will win. "We know Boonen," he alluded to his former teammate. "And he can win six, seven, eight stages this year." We'll see. Those flat stages, with their sprint finishes and breakaways, are always a crapshoot. And now that Lance has a relatively cushy lead he might be more willing to extend some team a gift by allowing a successful breakaway. Lance is known as the patron of the peloton, which is a nice way of saying he's cycling's version of a godfather. Nothing happens without his blessing.  Speaking of gifts, the Tour souvenir stands are selling a t-shirt with "No Gifts" scrawled across the front. It's an allusion to a conversation between Lance and Bernard Hinault a few years back. The topic of discussion was crushing rivals and never giving them a single moment of hope. Seems appropriate right now. I read in my French history guide that the castle in Chambord is the largest in the Loire region, a landmark of the French renaissance known for it's turrets, spires, and double staircase. Sounds wonderful (I see ten castles a day and have yet to tire of them). From the description, however, I much prefer the finish in Montargis. It's a canal-lined medieval city known for its gastronomy. Given that four vineyards battled to have their wines tasted at today's media buffet (the food menu: foie gras, salade forestiere, fruit sorbet, and fresh local blueberries), I can't wait to see what a center of gastronomy will have to offer. Vive le France. If you look at a map, tomorrow's stage puts us halfway across France. The terrain has changed every day since leaving the Atlantic. I'm really not sure what tomorrow will bring, and that's OK. I find that's the best way to experience the Tour. Ah, there it is. The light patter of rain has been replaced by a steady downpour and distant flickers of thunder. Until tomorrow.

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Hot, Hot, Hot

Posted by MDugard Jul 6, 2005

It's hot. The temperature is a humid 85 degrees and the riders are going to be suffering on today's flat 181.5-kilometer stage. The route is loosely shaped like a "u", pushing south down the coast from Challons for the first 60 miles, then turning sharp left and north toward the finish in Les Essarts. The road along the Atlantic is scenic farmland dotted with acres of pine trees, which were planted in the late-19th century to stabilize the sand dunes. The turn inland is green, a continuum of hedgerows and rolling country roads that call to mind the farmland of eastern Nebraska. There's an uphill push to the finish, but nothing remotely mountainous. It is a ride through history, laced with cathedrals and ancient castles. And did I mention that it's hot?This is a day for the sprinters and attack groups. Lance Armstrong isn't going to do anything audacious, nor is yellow jersey guy David Zabriskie of Team CSC. They're a comfortable one-minute up on the field. Barring a crash or supernatural intervention, nothing's going to change.David Zabriskie is a strong climber, but will still work to put Ivan Basso in yellow during next week's mountain stages. It's felt that he's too unsure of himself and not enough of a leader. This is a pragmatic move by CSC team manager Bjarne Riis, but nonetheless curious. Zabriskie, though unknown, has the potential to wage a spectacular war against Armstrong. Basso is strong, but something of a head case, prone to snap under pressure.Phil Liggett and Chris Carmichael are picking Tom Boonen to win today. Paul Sherwen is picking Australia's Baden Cooke. Bob Roll was more interested in talking about the curious French reaction to yesterday's time trial. Instead of marveling at Lance Armstrong passing Jan Ullrich, they feel Armstrong is weak because he didn't win.   Either way, Roll feels vindicated that yesterday was a turning point for American cycling. Four of the top six finishers hailed from the U.S.Speaking of that, is there a better second-banana in cycling than George Hincapie? He's the Scottie Pippen to Armstrong's Michael Jordan. They complete each other, even though Hincapie's role is almost completely unsung. There were many on the Discovery Team who were rooting for Hincapie to win yesterday's time trial, just so that he might wear the yellow jersey for once in his career.Despite the sportsmanlike comments about Ullrich yesterday, Lance Armstrong was privately very happy about beating him. Their careers are inextricably woven together, and include some of the most epic Tour highlights in history: Ullrich going off road and Lance stopping to wait, the "look" on L'Alpe d'Huez in 2001, Ullrich's crash in the rain in 2003,   and now the "pass" of 2005. Ullrich has always come out on the losing end.Just walked over to the finish area. A local marching band wearing all red is parading up and down the streets, looking very much like the Disneyland band on Main Street U.S.A. The players are all of a certain advanced age, and looked most uncomfortable under the glaring sun (they were also a sharp contrast to the black-clad accordion band at the starting line, who looked like musical Mennonites). The Les Essarts marching band, however, sound great. Nothing like the martial sound of drums, cymbals and brass to beat the summer doldrums.Went for a run this morning, and inadvertently found myself in the midst of the local market day (this comes after last night's local bocce tournament, also well attended). Amid the stalls of fresh local berries, melons and modest bikinis (ironic, as French TV is currently showing a fishing show that features a topless model casually chatting with the anglers as she baits their hooks – no metaphor intended) were scads of freshly caught fish on ice. I didn't recognize the French names of them all –- though sole was easy enough – but the giant lobsters and live crabs were hard to miss. Pretty cool way to ease into a morning run.Speaking of souls, this coastal region is intriguing for its spirituality. The Roman Catholic influence is pronounced, with several towering roadside crucifixes that look to have been in place for centuries.   A grotto to the Virgin Mary is just across the park from today's finish. However, even though the church bells tolled outside my hotel room this morning, the old stone church was locked. So was every other church I've seen so far. It seems that the churches exist today as a building on which the locals can lean their bicycles while shopping at the market. Bob Babbitt from Competitor thinks it's all part of a French "what the hell" attitude towards life – no church, no helmets while cycling, and a constant infusion of cigarettes.OK, I know we're getting into red state territory here, but I was also intrigued that Aquarel water features an actor dressed as a priest on their float during the pre-race caravan. He pronounces to one and all that Aquarel is equivalent to holy water. It's all very unusual – and uniquely French. Call it the legacy of Cardinal Richelieu.The pre-race village in Challans featured heaping platters of oysters, two ballerinas on stilts (don't ask), the requisite copies of Le Monde and L'Equipe, those red-clad models from Paris who dole out free black coffee, and slices of soft, odiferous Normandy Camembert.   Thanks to the Tour I have developed a deep fondness for Camembert, but the Canadian-made stuff back at Trader Joe's is neither soft nor odiferous enough. Great to be back in France, eating the real thing.Team CSC's Bjarne Riis builds team unity in the off-season by putting his team through a wilderness survival course.   That unity figures to be a key ingredient in the Tour's next big stage, Tuesday's team time trial. Many feel the competition will be as much about the duel between CSC and the Disco Boys as between their two managers: Riis and Discovery's Johann Bruyneel.The Tour is funny. You work to the point of exhaustion, drive long hours, crawl into bed at midnight, and wonder how you'll ever manage the strength or enthusiasm for the next day. But the scenery changes with each stage, introducing new sights and smells, infusing each and every day with a wonder all its own. The sense of rejuvenation is organic and complete.Enjoy today's stage. More later.

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It Starts

Posted by MDugard Jul 6, 2005

It feels like all of France has descended on the tiny fishing village of Fromentine for the start of this year's Tour. During the five-hour drive down from Paris yesterday the roads were packed with cars towing small campers and lugging bicycles on racks. Now those same campers line the course from Fromentine here to the finish in Noirmoutier. It's still five hours before the start, but as I drove in from my hotel in Notre Dame de Mons this morning, spectators were already perched in their chairs along the roadside claiming their spots. Here and there, tables laden with wine bottles, plastic cups and fresh baguettes announce the start of the party. Cyclists wearing the colors of their favorite teams pedaled along the blustery roads, past the oyster farms and low salt marshes that define the topography. The air smells like low tide. Closer to the finish, fans of all ages from around the world line the barricades, waiting for the moments when the riders will pass and they can bang their palms on the metal signage covering the barricades for the last kilometer. The mood is, above, all, expectant, like the moments before the start of the Super Bowl, albeit it a Super Bowl that will contiue for the next 23 days. It feels good to be at the Tour, like the feeling that comes before the start of a great adventure.   Except this time the adventure will not be solitary, but shared with the other 20 million spectators who will watch the race between now and Paris.Today's start will be very late in the day – 3:40 pm local time. The winds are blowing lightly along the course right now, but if yesterday's weather was any indication, the gusts coming off the ocean to hit the riders broadside will greatly increase in power by late afternoon.The focus, of course, is on Lance Armstrong and his bid to win a seventh and final Tour de France. He has maintained a low profile, but his picture is in all the papers. Not even Frenchman Thomas Voeckler, a national hero after defending the jersey for more than a week last year, is more prevalent. Armstrong has been subdued in his discussions with the press, except to say that he didn't come here to lose. The bike crash last week (a bee flew into his glasses and stung him) hasn't left him the worse for wear and tear. Pre-race scuttlebutt is saying that Armstrong's team is the strongest in the field. They'll do their job protecting him from the wind and on the long climbs. The pressure will be on Lance to perform in the time trials (starting with today's) and during next week's pivotal mountain stages.The course today is a tough one. After a circuitous loop past the quaint streets of Fromentine, the riders head out to the island of Noirmoutier en L'ile. The road is protected from the winds by trees (and campers) for the first few miles. However, the bridge between the mainland and island is both steep and unsheltered. The winds should be particularly harsh there. After a screaming descent off the bridge (it will be a test of courage to stay in that aero tuck, given the combination of winds and angle of descent) the road stays level all the way to the finish. Salt marshes, freshly-mowed farmland, and oyster farms line the road. The riders wil make a sharp left at the roundabout once they reach town, then stand up in the pedals for that final short sprint to the finish.Last year Armstrong's team, U.S. Postal, was known as the Posties. This year his team has a new sponsor and a new nickname. Team Discovery Channel is also known as "The Disco Boys."The CBS television van parked next to me in the gravel car park near the finish. Armen Ketayan is over here doing their coverage this weekend (the daily feed will be handled by OLN, while CBS will continue the weekend reports they've been doing since the days of Ric Lacivita). It was nice to see the CBS guys and good to hear someone speaking English, but what I really liked was the guys carrying the extra bags of Brooks Brothers clothing just in case the weather turns. I need a guy like that.The Tour generally starts with a short prologue. This year is different. The first stage is a 19-kilometer individual time trial, meaning that gaps of seconds and even minutes will separate the field after the first day of competition. The Tour organizers (no dummies) are setting up a three-week drama between the top riders, instead of the usual quiet first week before a true leader emerges. Look for Levi Leipheimer, Floyd Landis, Jan Ullrich, Andreas Kloden, Alexandre Vinokourov, and, of course, Lance Armstrong, to separate themselves.Of that group, Vinokourov – "Vino" – goes off first. He starts 104th at 5:23 pm. The riders leave at one-minute intervals. Leipheimer goes off at 6:11. Armstrong heads down the ramp at 6:48, just a minute behind Jan Ullrich. You can bet Ullrich will be aware of that short gap, though his chances of getting caught are slim in such a short time trial.On a personal note, yesterday was a long one. After the overnight flight from L.A., I battled Paris traffic for several hours before breaking free for the drive to the coast. Paris doesn't have a single ring road, meaning a navigation challenge through the outskirts of the city to find the way from de Gaulle to the A11 highway. After a detour that almost led me onto the grounds of Euro Disney (I promised my son, Connor, I would try to make it there while I'm in France, but that will have to wait until the Tour brings us all back to Paris in three weeks time), I finally found the A11. The road was lined with pine trees and signs advertising turn-offs toward local castles and other historical spots. Beautiful, simply beautiful.All the local hotels were booked up (with every shake of the proprietor's heads I learned the hard way what "Voulez-vous reserve?" means), but after picking up the media credential in Challons and eating dinner at a small local restaurant (the standard menu was local oysters, steak au poivre, and chocolate mousse), I finally found a place down the coast from the start at 11 pm. The long day was done.Ran into Phil Liggett and Paul Sherwen a few minutes ago. They're gearing up for six straight hours on the air. Liggett was proud to pass along the news that he was recently given an Order of the British Empire (O.B.E.) for his contributions to cycling.One key facet of pre-race preparation is the podium ceremony. I looked on this morning as a new flock of young podium models went through a dress rehearsal for this evening's presentations of flowers, stuffed lion (the symbol of a major sponsor), and yellow jersey to the day's winner. The women were shapely, well-coiffed and somewhat nervous as the Tour music swelled from a speaker to begin the practice presentations. A scruffy male production assistant in shorts and a t-shirt stood in for the winner. A producer knelt down front and used hand paddles to cue them on the proper order of presentation (always the same: bouquet, lion, two kisses on the cheek, and then the yellow jersey, which five-time Tour champion Bernard Hinault personally zips).That's it for now. Still three hours before the start. Plenty of time to walk around and take it all in. Right now, all that's missing is the riders.

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Against the Wind

Posted by MDugard Jul 5, 2005

Today's 67.5-kilometer team time trial from Tours-Blois is deceptively tough. The course follows the Loire River's meandering path on its southern shore. The route is green and lush, passing through an area Leonardo da Vinci once called home. Like most waterways, the Loire seems to have a weather system all its own. The official race feed reports a "slight breeze" blowing at the backs of riders, but that's because the starting chute in Tours is protected by tall buildings and a spectator throng. I'm here to tell you that the wind along the river is anything but slight; a swirling, gusting force that is sure to play havoc with the riders.The rules of a team time trial: All nine members of a team start side-by-side today, atop a Tour-yellow starting ramp. They will ride in a single pace line throughout. The clock stops when a team's top six riders cross the finish line. A special jury watches each finish from a reviewing stand along President Wilson Avenue, which lies at the end of a 1200-meter straight finish. Look for teams like Euskatel-Euskadi -- which consists of several tiny, spider-armed, farmer-tanned Spanish climbers – to lose members en route. Their specialty is climbing, not time trialing. However, look for all nine members of today's favorites to finish together. A team is always stronger with more men to take turns pulling at the front of the pace line.Those favorites, by the way, are Discovery Channel, Phonak, T-Mobile, and CSC. The last squad, led by race leader Dave Zabriskie, is perhaps the strongest overall team in the field. But this is a stage where riders will pedal as close to one another as possible. Too close and they clip wheels and crash. An inch too far apart and the added speed of the draft is minimized. A good team leader keeps his troops in line and encourages them to work in synch during the time trial's early moments, when too much adrenaline can scuttle organization. A good leader also shows how its done, motivating them by taking extended pulls up front when his teammates are tired late in the stage. So who wins and loses today is just as much a matter of team leadership as athletic potential. An example of how a poor team leader can cause mayhem during a time trial is Team Phonak's wretched showing in last year's team time trial. Hamilton, a man prone to daydreaming and http://community.active.com/blogs/MartinDugar/2005/07/05/against-the-wind/ed note:  It seems that Martin had a Tyler Hamilton moment of his own here.It's worth noting that Luke Roberts from CSC is perhaps the best qualified, though most overlooked, member of their squad for this stage. He was part of the Australian team winning the gold medal in the 4,000-meter team pursuit at last year's Olympics. Team pursuit is a shorter sort of team time trial. Another member of that Aussie team was Brad McGee of the Francaise de Jeux squad.Shared a small elevator with Tour CEO Jean Marie LeBlanc last night. He was in good spirits, explaining that he was on his way from his second cocktail party of the night to his third, which would be followed by two dinners. I took his upbeat attitude to mean the Tour is proceeding according to his plan. In those years when the Tour descends into chaos, LeBlanc can either be a curmudgeon or downright dismissive.In case any of you are wondering, 189 riders started this year's Tour. That's 21 teams, with nine riders per team. The team leader's number always ends in "1" and the rest of his teammates' numbers end in 2 through 9. No one's number ends in zero. The entire Tour will be 3,608 kilometers. I'll let you do the math, but let's just say it's about 2,000 miles.Took a leisurely run around Tours this morning. I'm so immersed in the Tour de France that I forget it's workday, and was surprised at first to be dodging pedestrian commuters on the sidewalks. The Boulevard Nationale is the same wide thoroughfare where yesterday's stage finished and today's begins. It is a broad, if rather unspectacular, collection of apartments, hotels, brasseries, and shops. The most interesting facet is the alleyways and side streets, with their quaint café's and patisseries. It's all so very French.By the way, I'm here to tell you that, despite what the bestselling book says, French women do get fat. So do French men. And they smoke like swimsuit models. However, everyone seems to either walk or ride a bike (those old three-speeds with the basket on the handlerbars and panniers hanging over the back fender). I haven't seen a single morbidly obese person since I arrived. After my run I took a long walk down through the starting area. All the team busses were in place five hours before the stage would begin. Discovery's wind trainers were all in a precise line, awaiting the time for group warm-up. Team mechanics were checking and polishing each bike. Disc wheels (made by Bontrager) and tri-spokes (Hed.3) were attached. Everything was set to go by 11:30, and a crowd packed the surrounding barricades, awaiting Lance and the crew to emerge from the bus. What no one was telling them was that Discovery wasn't on the bus. They weren't planning to leave their hotel in Nantes until 1:30, and wouldn't arrive until almost 3. Call it G8 fever (from what I read in the papers, it seems America can, and will, ignore African poverty and global warming at the upcoming Edinburgh summit. How very Karl Rove of us), or maybe just the ultimate Sideways getaway, but more and more American flags can be seen at the Tour. The groups are almost all men, traveling in small wolf packs. I have the feeling that the Tour has become like Augusta or the Super Bowl, a place where men of a certain age and financial status travel for their sporting jones and indulge in the local vintages. The phenomenon obviously has a lot to do with Lance, and seems singularly American at this point. I haven't seen Germans or Spaniards waving their flags or wearing their team colors. I need to talk with some of these guys and find out more. A quick hey to the Bongo Boys – Devin, Connor, and Liam. I'll be back after the stage. Just looked up at the feed and saw that T-Mobile's about to go off, and that Euskatel-Euskadi finished. I can hear the cheers outside as Liquigas-Bianchi charge home. Discovery goes off in 25 minutes. Hope Lance doesn't pull his foot out.

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Lost in the Scrum

Posted by MDugard Jul 4, 2005

Today's La Chatagineraie-Tours stage is deceptively grueling. The riders will see their first real uphill of the Tour, with three fourth-category climbs in the first 100 miles. The wind is blowing hard enough that the finish corridor had to be rebuilt after several morning gusts knocked the barricades flat. It's also a very good possibility that we'll see thunder and lightning sometime soon. But perhaps the biggest obstacle will be the nature of the rural town's along the route. Houses and buildings press right up to the roadway, spilling spectators onto the roads. Add in the many abrupt turns, and an abundance of roundabouts and medians ("road furniture" in Tour parlance) and the riders will have to pay close attention to avoid a crash.The finish straightaway is spectacular. Used annually as the final stretch of the Paris-Tours Classic, it's 3,000 meters right into the gut of the city. The boulevard is wide enough to accommodate a dozen cyclists abreast. Fans were already lining the route by early morning. It is expected that they will pack the barricades ten-deep as the riders charge for home this afternoon.Though it's a longshot (I'm watching the feed right now, and the three-man breakaway group led by Erik Dekker is slowly being reeled in), I'm hoping for a successful breakaway. Barring that, the final sprint will be a long furious hammer to the line. Should make for great drama.Speaking of sprint finishes, Lance Armstrong watched a videotape of yesterday's finish in his hotel room last night. He marveled at the daredevil nature of the sprinters, and said he was glad not to be among them. It's worth pointing out that his Discovery Team is one of the few squads not to use a dedicated sprinter at the Tour. They're not willing to risk the loss of a rider due to a crash.It's hard not to notice that many of this year's top riders once worked for Lance. Among them are Floyd Landis, Levi Leipheimer, yesterday's winner Tom Boonen, and current wearer of the yellow jersey Dave Zabriskie. Dan Ossipow of the Discovery Team points out that their departures were all amicable, and it's true that these men were all very talented riders who could make more money and have a better chance of winning elsewhere. However, it's worth pointing out that Landis often chafed aloud at team manager Johann Bruyneel's authoritarian leadership and that Dave Zabriskie's quirky sense of humor went unappreciated. When it came time for contract renewal last fall, Zabriskie wasn't booted from the team. Instead, he was offered an amount of money so small as to be laughable. He had no difficulty leaving to sign with CSC.To Discovery's credit, they stuck through Zabriskie during two trying years of injury (unlike Cofidis, which dropped Lance in the midst of his cancer recovery). After the crash at Redlands last year which shredded the skin on his upper body and knocked him senseless, a tearful Zabriskie lay in his hospital bed and wondered aloud whether he had the strength to make a comeback.At last year's Tour, I noticed quite a few Capri pants on men. It seemed a whimsical fashion statement. Like day-glo and baggy cotton weightlifting pants, the trend seemed sure to die a quick death. Sadly, this has not come to pass. Richard Virenque – a mercurial former rider who never lived up to his country's expectations of a Tour victory – was even wearing a pair while taping a segment on French TV. Hey, I'm not saying the guy was wearing a skirt (not that there's anything wrong with that) but it just didn't look right.For the curious among you, today's media buffet was perhaps the best yet. Each town sponsors a dish highlighting their local specialties, and Tours put forth a spectacular effort. The appetizer was some sort of creamy pork spread that tasted like carnitas ("what is this?" I asked the woman behind the table. She was wearing a flowing green robe that looked very much like a Notre Dame graduation gown. "Mmmm…. How you say? Pig," she replied). So I ate the pig (very good) a slice of local brie, passed on the vegetable pate and roast beef (I'll go back for that later), and finished it all off with a china demitasse of coffee. All of it was good, but I'd have to say that the pig was the highlight.After the stage...Here's what it's like to cover a sprint finish: squeeze through a crowd of spectators through the small press entrance into the finish area. I go straight out into the middle of the road, into a crowd of TV camera men. The official shakes a finger at me and order me to stand in an enclosed area reserved for print journalists. Except the enclosed area is as crowded as a cattle stall on market day, and the journalists will be held in there until the TV guys have had a crack at the riders. I wait until the official turns away, then escape the holding pen and squeeze into a crowd of TV guys. By now the race announcer is going crazy on the P.A.   Straight ahead, I can see the entire peloton passing under the one-kilometer to go archway (the "flame rouge").   Tom Boonen throws up his arms straight up in ecstasy after winning the sprint. Then things get a little crazy. The rides whiz up to where I am standing, not bothering to touch their breaks until they're almost on the crowd. The street becomes a sea of riders and journalists. The cyclists have one foot in the pedals and the other unclipped to steady themselves. Lance comes up to me. I tell him congratulations, then make a note to get to his team bus as quickly as possible.   He's upset about getting cut off and nearly crashing with three kilometers remaining.George Hincapie rides past, tall and lean and tanned, with a gruesome set of varicose veins bulging from his left calf. Ivan Basso stops to do an interview with a Spanish broadcaster.   It seems strange to see him so eloquent, because he looks so tortured when trying out his English. A Belgian domestique sees his mother behind the barricades and smiles broadly as he pedals over.  I am now complexly surrounded by bikes. The riders bump off of me and each other, always moving toward their team bus. Floyd Landis pedals alongside and slows to my pace. His red hair and goatee are trim and it looks like he has not broken a sweat all day. He rides while I walk and ask questions. Landis is witty and humble, already looking past this week into the mountains. After a block I run out of things to ask and he pedals away. I'll save the extended interview for another day.  By now the streets are a scrum of riders, press and team buses revving up and driving out of town. The race has been over for five minutes. It all happens that fast. Jan Ullrich pedals past, his body pressed against the AG2M bus as it rolls away. And then the riders are gone, off for a night of eating, massage and sleep.Boonen's victory means that every stage thus far has been won by a former teammate of Lance Armstrong's. This is significant because he handpicked each one. It's as if Lance has personally shaped modern cycling.Tomorrow's a pivotal day. I was going to say it's going to be a "very big" day, but there will be so many of those in weeks to come that I don't want to overuse the phrase now. It's to be a 67.5-kilometer team time trial from Tours to Blois (a city whose name means "wolf", given by the Celts, who ruled the area until 584 and feared the many wolves in its thick forests). The first 15 miles are flat. It will be easy for teams to stay together and maintain top speeds. But a series of climbs soon make the route extremely daunting, particularly the climb at Carrefour in the 58th kilometer. Look for CSC, Discovery, Phonak, and T-Mobile to battle it out. Dave Zabriskie's slim two second lead is definitely not safe.I bounced that assessment off Floyd Landis this afternoon. He says that the profile is misleading, and that it's actually very flat tomorrow. The route runs along the banks of   the Loire River. Those hills shown in the pre-race profiles are actually a very slight gradient. Landis says CSC is the obvious favorite, but points out that they've been working hard the past two days and are vulnerable. Blois, which has been rebuilt after being almost entirely destroyed by World War II bombing, is also the birth place of Harry Houdini. It's also the place where Joan of Arc also rallied her army against the British in 1429.Speaking of history, the French are a funny people. The local history of Tours takes pains to point out that it was devastated by German bombing between June 19-21, 1940. However, it points, the Allied raid of May 20, 1944 caused far more damage. Maybe if they'd repelled the invasion in the first place the French wouldn't have had that problem.Lance, by the way, had a few things to say about tomorrow. "The Maillot Jaune is something to be cherished," he said while standing in front of his team bus. "You can bet I'll be fighting for it tomorrow. CSC is a tough team and tomorrow's a big day."Looking forward to it.

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Woke last night to the sound of thunder…Happy Fourth of July from Tours, scene of today's finish. This is the first rather large city the Tour will pass through this year. My hotel room is on the fifth floor of the Hotel de l'Univers. Once upon a time L'Univers was a majestic residence, hosting the likes of Hemingway and Hepburn. Now it has fallen, but still possesses a certain shabby beauty, and what it lacks in opulence it makes up in charm, like the view it provides me as I write. I look out through old-fashioned wood-pained windows, the kind that swing all the way open. Across the slanted black rooftops I can see the eight-story clock tower, with its bronze cupola and bell. Ornate stone carvings of Greek gods and lion-headed gargoyles line the block-wide tower, and a tolling bell marks the passing of each hour. The window is open and the curtains pulled back, letting in a chill morning breeze. The Tour, I am reminded, is not just about cycling. It is a literal tour of France, with all its subtle beauty and charm.The riders won't be here for six hours. I am impressed that the finish straightaway will be nearly two miles long, making for either a spectacular sprint finish or an agonizing final passage for some lone breakaway group. Out the window, in the distance, I can hear the amplified voice of the finish line announcer, already warmed up and broadcasting. He will be out there, announcing the daily carnival that defines a Tour finish, until late tonight.Oh. He just took a break. From the bombastic sound of swelling music, I can tell that the podium girls are practicing this afternoon's yellow jersey presentation. It will be this way each morning, all the way to Paris.The drive over from Les Essarts last night was longer than I expected, though the journey along the N160 was wondrous. I had the window rolled down and could smell fresh-cut alfalfa as I passed through the farmland and small towns, with their cobbled streets and brown exteriors (a sudden contrast to the whitewashed colors along the coast). I saw my first vineyards of this year's Tour; the first sunflowers and wheat).  As eight o'clock became nine o'clock became ten, it looked like making Tours before the restaurants closed would be an impossibility.So I bought a small pizza and an Orangina at a roadside stand, not quite sure what ingredients I was ordering, but pleasantly surprised to be greeted with anchovies, unpitted black olives, thin-sliced sausage and a rather zesty tomato/pimento sauce. Tres bien.Crossed the Loire River at Samour. It is as broad and sluggish as the Mississippi this time of year, laced with sand bars and dangerous eddies. Samour would have been a great place to stop had it been earlier. The bridge was old and made of stone, with arched supports like the bridges of Paris and London. I could see a huge castle jutting above the town, and the dome of a cathedral nestled in the sycamores along the water. Ah, well. Another time.The first Tour I covered was 1999, the year Lance Armstrong first won. I came to write a story about Greg LeMond's new bike touring company. LeMond was kind enough to loan me one of his personal bikes ("LeMond" was written in Sharpee on the front tire). On the day of the pivotal Sestriere Alpine stage, LeMond was eager to talk with Lance beforehand. I tagged along as LeMond tracked him down in a small trailer near the starting line. Lance was inside, talking strategy with Tyler Hamilton, then his top domestique. LeMond went in, while I stood outside with the guy holding Lance's bike. By the time they emerged, the past and future of American cycling arm in arm, the photographers had found them. Lance would go on to win the stage that day, donning the yellow jersey that he would wear to Paris.In reply to an email from Curious in Carlsbad: Yes, the Tour will go forth as scheduled today, despite the thunderstorms. There are no rainouts at the Tour.Those thunderstorms ripped through here at about 4 am. The windows were open (air conditiong, apparently, non-existent when l'Univers was built) and the sudden crackle of lightning and boom of thunder fairly lit up the room. I think it had something to do with that clock tower across the way being the tallest structure in town. I could smell the rain outside -- you know, the way it smells on grass and pavement on a warm summer evening. The storm raged for several hours. Now the sky is relatively calm, if covered in puffy grey clouds.So… to wrap up last night. Checked in at midnight. Walked down to the corner brasserie for a beer and the chance to write down my notes. Much to my surprise, it was loaded with Americans (as well as Phil Liggett, Paul Sherwen, Bob Babbitt, and Bob Roll).  When I think of the groups of people who make their way to the Tour each year, I think in nationalistic terms: the Americans, the Germans, the Spaniards, and on. But as I spoke with a young couple from the Bay Area, I was reminded that another group of individuals come: Cancer survivors whose lives have been touched by Armstrong. Thirty-year old Jordan Redner told me of the changes he's made in his life since beating Hodgkins, and about how he'd been inspired by the Armstrong Foundation information he obtained while undergoing treatment at Stanford. Since then he's lived every day to the fullest, much like Lance (when people wonder how Lance can often be so direct and confrontational, it seems there's a correlation between cancer and that inability to endure b.s.). Now Redner's in Tours, cheering on Armstrong.I wished Redner and his wife, Mary (who is fretting about the loss of her wedding ring; best of luck with that) good night. As I walked back to the room I couldn't help but wish that my little sister, Monique, who read Armstrong's book as she lay dying, could be here too. Kind of puts it all in perspective, you know?More later. Today's going to be a fantastic stage, loaded with scenery and challenge. Talk to you then.

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Stage Two, Part Two

Posted by MDugard Jul 3, 2005

The eyes of France were on Thomas Voeckler, hoping against hope that his four-man breakaway group could pull of a stage win and put him in yellow. And though he pulled it off last year, the baby-faced national hero was unsuccessful on this blistering Sunday afternoon. The peloton slowly but surely reeled in the breakaway. They seemed to be in no hurry, content in the knowledge that the gap between them and Voeckler's bunch was too small to be a threat. They were right. Tom Boonen got the win in a sprint breakaway.Voeckler's day, however, wasn't a total washout. Thanks to a time bonus awarded the first cyclist to pass the stage's 150-kilometer mark, he now wears the polka-dotted jersey.  This is awarded to the best mountain rider. Today's "mountain" was the renowned 230-foot peak, Chateau Guibert.Lance Armsrong, Dave Zabriskie, Alexandre Vinokourov, and everybody else in the top 10 finished without worry. Which is not to say there wasn't tension. The TV feed showed a telling moment when Lance's Discovery Team shadowed Zabriskie's CSC squad. The two men made eye contact; just Lance's way of reminding Zabriskie that he considers the yellow jersey to be on loan.We still don't know a lot about Zabriskie. He comes across as – let's put it right out there – boring in interviews. Friends say he's just extremely shy, and that in person he's one of the sharpest, wittiest people you'd ever want to meet. He gave brief evidence of that in his post-race press conference, telling journalists that the survival course team manager Bjarne Riis insisted CSC undertake in the off-season "made a man out of him." OK, not that funny, but at least it was better than yesterday's awkward interviews, when he could barely mumble more than a sentence at a time. One other thing: The Utah native resides in Berkeley when he's not in Europe. His girlfriend is just finishing up school there.A new rule in effect this year gives the same time to every rider that finishes within two kilometers of the winner. This is designed to minimize those sphincter-clenching sprint finishes and the all-too-frequent catastrophic crashes (kissing the pavement at 35 mph is a singularly horrid sensation) that have defined the Tour's early stages in years past. That's why the gap between the sprinters and the peloton was several hundred yards at the finish today.Floyd Landis averaged 200 watts of energy expenditure today. On his scale of 1-10, that's about a 4. His training rides often see him average 250 for six hours straight, so Landis was pretty much just kicking back today. Don't ask me how this watt thing works, but I'm told it translates to about 3200 calories burned. Though that doesn't sound like much for a 115-mile ride, consider this: Landis didn't even have to pedal 16% of the time. He just flowed in the slipstream, sucked along by the riders in front. This, of course, is the same tactic Lance Armstrong has used so successfully on his way to six victories.Had a talk with Alan Lim, Landis' coach. The Discovery Team has scoffed at Landis's chances in the coming mountain stages, but Lim says those will be Landis's forte. Over the past two months he has climbed more than 350,000 vertical feet in training, an average of 7-15,000 feet up the Pyrenees each day. Lim says that Landis was up to the constant climbing, but that the clutch on the rental car used as a chase vehicle was so trashed they had to get a new one. To work on his time-trialing skills, Landis would switch to his TT bike whenever he rode through a valley. "Some people think you need to train long, some people think you need to train hard," says Lim. "Floyd thinks you need to train long and hard."Not that Landis is bitter about his time with Discovery, but the free-spirited Mennonite couldn't be happier at Phonak. He felt stifled at Discovery (then Postal Service) and was bothered by the team's rigid class system, which had every rider working for Lance, at all times.   Chris Carmichael of Discovery is openly doubtful that Landis can be a team leader this year, calling him a "top 15 G.C. (general classification, or overall finish) candidate at best." Lim, however, says that Landis is "one of the toughest people you'll ever meet." Not that either man is biased…Last on Landis, for now: Interestingly, he and Dave Zabriskie, the man in yellow, are roommates and training partnerss. Though they race for separate teams, Landis and Zabriskie share an apartment in Girona, Spain. They ride 80-150 miles per day, averaging 30 hours of training per week. For those in the know, that's the same Girona where Lance lives and trains while in Europe. He's not too forthcoming on his training mileage.A little bit of Tour trivia: It's a year-round corporation, sponsoring events other than the Tour. The official corporate uniform is a dark brown blazer, tan pants, and brown shoes. Bernard Hinault is fond of breaking the dress code on hot days by removing his blazer before making the post-race podium presentations.The press room today is a mile from the finish. It's housed in a school gymnasium with a wood-beamed roof and those retractable basketball backboards (six, in all) winched up to the ceiling. The air is thick with cigarette smoke and the air hums with cell phone rings,   a French show called "Velo Club" on the flat screen monitors, and journalistic debates in a half-dozen languages that somehow blend together into a single international thrum.   A woman with a bored expression circulates up and down the long rows of tables, passing out the day's results and a half-dozen other press releases, most of which are worthless. I would like to say that we all smell like lavender, but there is no air-conditioning and I sweat sitting still.   Just thought you might want to know...I like my history, so I'm looking forward to the next two stages. As we work our way westward up the Loire Valley, leaving the salt marshes and oysters of the Atlantic region behind, the towns possess are sometimes more than a thousand years old. My favorite tidbit from the Tour guidebook revolves around the city of La Chatagnerie, where the riders begin tomorrow's stage: "Local resident Francois de Vivonne was the tragic hero who fought a duel with the Baron de Jarnac in 1543. Vivonne lost, and Jarnac severed his hamstrings as he lay bleeding." Off to Tours to spend the night this evening and tomorrow night. It's the site of the third stage finish and the starting point for the fourth, that all-important individual time-trial.  Lance Armstrong and the Discovery Team, continuing their tradition of lodging as far as humanly possible from the race (and the press) as possible, are staying an hour further up the road in Chambord.Tomorrow's stage is just over 120 miles long. The terrain is rolling throughout, on country roads lined with pastures and irrigation canals. The high temperature today was 95 degrees, and more of the same is expected for tomorrow. Good news for the riders is that showers are expected in the middle miles, providing a brief respite. Talk to you then.

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Day One, Part Two

Posted by MDugard Jul 2, 2005

Noirmoutier en L'ile is the Cape Cod of France, known for its tourism and fruits of the sea. If you like oysters, this is the place to be. The media buffet, which each day showcases the food of local regions, featured heaping plasters of oysters (a leaner, slicker version of the stuff from back home), a creamy red fish chowder and piles of another local specialty, sea salt. Heaping mounds of it can be seen drying along the roads. I don't know much about salt, but the texture and taste reminds me of a deeply saline kosher salt. The wind is blowing from the northwest, which means it will be on the rider's left. It's misting, but the road isn't slick. The expanse of ocean along which the riders are pedaling right now is the Bay of Biscay. It is an area laden with history, as explorers from Columbus through Captain Cook have sailed though its turbulent waters (Cook considered this passage one of the toughest on earth). More recently, the Nazi U-boat fleet sheltered in bombproof concrete pens up the road in Lorient during World War II. The Tour route for the first four days will stay just south of the path the Allies followed after D-Day. The latter half of this week, however, will pass through cities and forests that saw some of the heaviest and most infamous fighting in the winter of 1944-45, as well as passing close to the legendary WWI battlefield of Verdun. While waiting for the stage to begin today, the broadcast feed in the pressroom featured a French television show that looked to be a cross between Desperate Housewives and CSI. Looked interesting. Couldn't understand a word. Had a conversation with Chris Carmichael, Lance Armstrong's coach, just after he did his stint on today's OLN broadcast. His comments were memorable for their direct nature. Namely, that Lance was in no condition to win the Tour four months ago. But then two key things happened: Armstrong announced his retirement just before the Tour of Georgia, which provided him with motivation and a certain nostalgia; and, Armstrong hurled his Blackberry into Austin's Lake Travis because his fondness for instant email was occupying too much of his time. Now, says Carmichael, only a crash, illness or just plain bad luck can stop Armstrong.Much is being made of the Armstrong/Floyd Landis rivalry, but Carmichael considers Landis a decided longshot. Saying that the pressure of being a team leader will be too tough on the immature Landis, Carmichael considers him a top-15 choice at best. Discovery team director Johann Bruyneel would like Lance to have at least a 90-second advantage over top climbers like Alexandre Vinokourov, Ivan Basso, and Roberto Heras before the first mountain stage on July 12.The consensus is that Armstrong should win today's time trial.   Jan Ullrich, who crashed into the back of his team car during a training ride yesterday, should also do well. However, the dark horse is Santiago Botero of Team Phonak. He starts just six minutes before Armstrong.An evolving aspect of the Tour is the different nationalities among the spectators. The vibe today is almost entirely French, with the majority of Americans, Spaniards, Germans and other tourists expected to bombard the event over the next week, as the race approaches the sexy mountain stages. However, I did run across a group of students from Helena High School in Montana, visiting the Tour for the first time with their French teacher. Their names, because they were so rabid and so interesting to talk to: Marta Madden, Julie Grant, Brenden Mcgill, Dylan Larsen, and Jordan Morey.   All were wearing Lance's LiveStrong bracelets. Larsen, held up a sign stating "Montana loves Lance and Levi." The Levi in question was Team Gerolsteiner's Levi Leipheimer, who hails from Butte, Montana. Butte, the students assure me, is "the shithole of the world." Nice.As I write, the 73rd rider of the day is beginning his time trial. But I haven't seen any of the action because the video feed in the press room is down. It's time to walk over to the finish line and watch this Tour de France thing in person. I'll check in later, when today's stage is all said and done.

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