Every so often, the stars align and my wife and I are able to schedule a weekend away without the kids. Don't get me wrong, we love our kids, but every once in awhile we need a little separation to help us remember how much we love them. It so happens that we've enjoyed two such weekends in the last month, both of which took us to places I recommend to anyone else interested in an active weekend.
Among the several distinctive qualities of the lodge is that it caters to cyclers and features a nice assortment of hybrids and mountain bikes for rent. The lodge provides bike trail maps and route recommendations, but I suggest talking to one of the cycling-oriented lodge employees for suggested routes. The rental arrangement worked out well for us. I brought my bike, and my wife is testing the waters to see if she wants to pursue the hobby, so we tried out a hybrid rental for her.
The City of Townsend has a bike trail loop that intersects with the driveway to the lodge, and the lodge is also very close to the national park where there are a number of reportedly great bike routes (though other than the Townsend trail, none are dedicated bike trails). On Saturday morning we took our bikes into the park and rode a roughly 11 mile scenic loop trail around Cades Cove where we enjoyed some picturesque mountain views, wildflowers and a lot of deer. I learned that the scenic loop is closed to cars before 10:00 a.m., and I recommend that bikers take advantage of the pre-10:00 hours to enjoy the ride without the crush of traffic. The Smokey Mountain National Park is the most visited national park in the country, and the congestion can detract from the otherwise beautiful park.
After a great lunch in Townsend, we took the bikes on Townsend's bike trail, which is about a 12 mile loop that runs alongside the main highway. Saturday evening we talked to one of the proprietors who recommended some more aggressive routes within the park that we'd like to try next time. For mountain bikers, there are several paths crossing through the lodge property.
The lodge is luxuriously rustic with log-cabin architecture, regionally appropriate furnishings and an excellent chef. If you expect luxury comparable to the Ritz, Four Seasons, or even a nice Marriot, you'll be disappointed. The lodge isn't about expensive fixtures and porcelain, it's just not that kind of place. There are a number of rooms in the main lodge building, and several one and two bedroom cabins, in addition to a separate building for group meetings. We stayed in a one-bedroom cabin that included a kitchen, large tub, deck and outdoor Jacuzzi. The cabins are arranged such that they provide a sense of privacy and isolation despite their relatively close proximity to one another. One criticism is that I felt there was a bit of a disconnect between the very nice main lodge building and the cabins, which had more of a state park feel.
(The Main Lodge Dining Room)
On the whole, the trip was a great mix of rest and active recreation in a gorgeous setting. The two dinners that we ate at the lodge were exceptionally good, and on the second evening we ate outdoors on the deck near a roaring fireplace. The staff reports that the chef regularly rotates menu items, and on the weekend we were there the menu featured an eclectic assortment of tasty meals. The breakfasts were more standard fare, but well prepared.
Driving back to Atlanta after breakfast on Sunday morning, we felt as though we'd spent a week away. We're already looking forward to our next visit.
Last weekend we joined another couple on a quick overnight trip to the Len Foote Hike-Inn at Amicalola Falls State Park in North Georgia. The Inn is theoretically accessible only by foot via a 5 mile trail that starts in the park. The hike provides occasional views of the surrounding countryside, and it was so clear that we were able to see the Atlanta skyline in the distance. The hike is a moderate climb up, but falls short of strenuous, even with a pack. While the Dancing Bear Lodge accomplishes rustic luxury, the Len Foote Inn makes no pretense of luxury. The rooms are tiny and spare, each with built-in bunk beds and a few wooden pegs for hanging gear. There is a bath house with toilets and hot showers, but you have to walk outside of your room to access them. The Inn has a 9-person staff, including a conservationist who leads a daily tour displaying the many environmentally-conscious features of the Inn such as compost bins, non-flush toilets, and rain-water gathering devices for irrigation. I question the timing of a lecture on the value "humanure" immediately before dinner, but it was informative. Despite assurances that it didn't smell, I declined the persistent invitation to smell the sample container of humanure. Presumably because of its commitment to humanure, as well as solar panels and guilt-inducing conservation placards dotting the Inn, the structure has received a LEEDs Gold Certification for its environmental features.
While the rooms are spare, the Inn has a nice game/gathering room with a wrap-around deck affording great views of the mountains. It's rare in this day and age to be in a spot where you couldn't be busy even if you wanted to be. Our cell phones didn't work (and the facility prohibits cell phone use), and there's little to do other than sit on the porch, talk and play games. It's a nice reminder that the simpler pleasures in life are generally the best.
The food is passable, but not particularly notable. For those who enjoy being in the woods, but not sleeping in tents or the hassle of preparing food outdoors, the Inn is ideal. All you need to bring are clothes and toiletries - linens and eating utensils are all supplied. Weekends are apparently already booked through March, but weekdays are available, and there are discounts for stays in January and February.
On Sunday morning after breakfast, we allowed the other guests to check out and leave well ahead of us so that we'd have the trail to ourselves. We sat on chairs near an overlook and enjoyed the morning sun and crisp temperatures for about an hour before finally prying ourselves away and descending the mountain into reality, where cell phones work and stresses abound.
As I sit now looking over a bustling city bristling with cranes and crackling with sirens, horns and lights, I think of the many moments at both the Dancing Bear Lodge and Len Foote Inn where I found myself thinking "I want more of this."