Planning and preparation is the key to a successful mountaineering experience. For a trip of this magnitude, my climbing partner, Gil aka mountainroad and I collaborate through a chain of emails that cover specifics such as gear, weather forecast, meal plan and travel logistics.
The recent snowfall in the Sierra and the 20 to 30 percent chance for more on Friday changes our done-in-a-day plan to a three-day expedition. We’ll use our first day to approach the climb via Bishop Pass. The approach is relatively straight-forward, probably 3,000 feet of elevation gain. The second day, we’ll do the traverse and the third day, hike out and drive home.
I always take a mental note of something that I would like to improve from one trip to the next. My latest example of this is a departure from conventional prepackaged dehydrated meals to couscous and individually packaged, pre-marinated chicken breast. My former meal plan was quick and convenient, but couscous prepares just as fast. The taste of my new method is unmatched. I find it easier to digest than any dehydrated meal, and there are no "crunchies" left at the bottom of the bag where water did not seep. Couscous has versatility, a fine quality to have in the mountains, and a welcomed guest at mealtime. You can throw in a packaged meat or fish, sun dried tomatoes, spices, and if you are lucky, a freshly caught fish from an icy mountain creek.
I’ve included a list of essential gear for this trip. If you have any questions, please included a comment on my blog and I’ll be happy to reply. I’m looking forward to sharing this experience with you all next week, upon our safe return.
Gear list:
rope, slings, passive gear (nuts/hexes), cordalette
climbing harness, ATC, 2 locking carabineers
helmet
winter boots
crampons, ice axe, winter gaiters
climbing shoes
trekking poles
soft shell pants
base layer pants
top layers: mid-weight under armor, fleece, synthetic down jacket, waterproof shell
warm socks, liner socks, extra pair of both
liner gloves, winter gloves
warm hat
sunglasses
tent
sleeping bag, pad
Optional: hand warmers, balaclava
Food/Hydration:
Cooking gear: Jetboil stove, new fuel canister, utensils
Water in 1.75 liter nalgene bottle and collapsible nalgene canteen
Iodine pills and EmergenC
Friday--
Breakfast at the trailhead
Lunch all day
Dinner---Couscous to share and a package of chicken/fish for each of us
Saturday
Breakfast before dawn in the tent---oatmeal and hot drink (very cold morning)
Snacks to climb with
Dinner---Ramen, packaged protein, cheese
Sunday
Breakfast whenever we wake up---whatever
Snacks to hike down with
Lunch/Dinner in Big Pine/Lone Pine or a decent meal waiting for us in the car.
I'm "Google Earthing" the route right now...its gonna be a looong day on Saturday...throw some freshies in the headlamp! The good news is that we get to camp next to a lake and prob won't need the crampons for the traverse, but we should take the axes. We will also be ascending to the ridge via the side without much snow and no glacier. (Arnold Shwartznegger voice) We are also mountain climbing machines and we're gonna tear it up on the traverse!
Whats the plan for Thursday? It works for me if I pick you up from work on our way out cause I have to stop at the store and get some gear. Do not underestimate how cold its going to be. I doubt it will be above 45-50 degrees at any point during our entire trip. I once saw a man's urine freeze mid stream, speaking of which, do not forget to shut the helmet cam off when you are taking a whiz. Another piece of good news is that our descent route also follows the west side of the ridge so we get the maximum amount of direct sunlight possible. Sunrise is at 706am, which means we should set an alarm for 515am and be moving by 630. Sunset is at 630 pm which means we have to start descending from the ridge by 330pm. At every point on the ridge, we must have an identifiable bail route. We cannot stop moving on the ridge and if a break needs to be taken, it must be taken in the sunlight to avoid getting too cold. if weather starts to form at any point on the ridge, we must get to a retreat spot immediately, no exceptions. Given optimal conditions, neither of us should encounter much physical challenges. The crux of the climb will be route-finding and not being scared to solo 5th class stuff. We'll buy all food that we don't already have on the way up. Lets have some fun! "En las montañas, nuestros ojos pueden ver que el pasado y nuestros corazones pueden saber el futuro, pero el presente se puede revelar solamente por tiempo."
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Gil