Blog Posts From Active Toby's Adventure Blog Tagged With mountaineering

CA 14ers: Palisades Traverse (Fail #2)

Active Toby — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 21:27:23 GMT

The Palisades Traverse is a classic alpine ridge traverse that connects the summits of five of California's fourteen thousand foot peaks. My old climbing partner Gil and I attempted the route in October of 2007 and were snowed out during the night at the base of (what we thought was) Thunderbolt Peak (14,003').

</a>!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3572/3687408165_29dccbb262.jpg|height=375|alt=a mountain bouquet|width=500|src=http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3572/3687408165_29dccbb262.jpg!

Alpine bouquet

Over the holiday weekend, me and my friends Jake and Kam were eager to give it a shot. We hit the road on Thursday around 2 p.m. and made the long drive up to Bishop. We tried to leave early enough but ended up hitting the holiday weekend traffic and arriving at South Lake trail head parking lot around 10 p.m. We set up our bivy in the parking lot and were asleep by 11 p.m. and two hours later, the alarm sounded and we were gearing up to hit the trail.

!http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2668/3688202374_8c9bdbef98.jpg|height=375|alt=Bishop Pass|width=500|src=http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2668/3688202374_8c9bdbef98.jpg!

Alpenglow

We were on the trail by 2:30 a.m. on Friday morning for the ~8-mile approach via Bishop Pass trail. We moved quickly through the darkness guided by the light of our headlamps, only making quick stops to shed/add layers and eat snacks. We hit some snow patches above 11,000’ and reached Bishop Pass and topped off our water from a mountain stream in Dusy Basin before the ascent of what we thought was Thunderbolt Peak…

!http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2552/3688215130_37d39f30bc.jpg|height=375|alt=Bishop Pass|width=500|src=http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2552/3688215130_37d39f30bc.jpg!

!http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2520/3688246128_4213835dd2.jpg|height=375|alt=Bishop Pass|width=500|src=http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2520/3688246128_4213835dd2.jpg!

Jake, kicking steps for us

On the way up, we negotiated some fourth/fifth-class scrambling/climbing while one of our team members started to suffer from the altitude. We reached the first peak behind schedule, only to discover we were on the summit of Mount Agassiz (13,899’), one of the twenty highest peaks of California. From there, we could see across to Thunderbolt Peak, where we were supposed to be.

Yes folks, we climbed the wrong mountain.

!http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2539/3687449577_9d2d78493d.jpg|height=375|alt=Bishop Pass|width=500|src=http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2539/3687449577_9d2d78493d.jpg!

From right to left: Thunderbolt Peak, Starlight Peak, North Palisade, Polemonium Peak, Mt Sill

So behind schedule and off-route, we decided to pull the plug and head back to San Diego. Our down-climb was a blast, as we glissaded a 1000’ patch of snow which boosted our morale while saving time and energy which we really needed. We got back to the car at 6:30 p.m. making for a 16-hour day on our feet and then took on the 6-hour drive home after dinner in Bishop to arrive back in San Diego at 3 a.m. on Saturday. ~36 hours from sea level to 13,899’ and back--what a trip!

!http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2462/3688242874_8aff5baca7.jpg|height=375|alt=Bishop Pass|width=500|src=http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2462/3688242874_8aff5baca7.jpg!

Jake and Kam

!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3597/3688266002_b529067a2d.jpg|height=375|alt=Bishop Pass|width=500|src=http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3597/3688266002_b529067a2d.jpg!

Kam, finishing her glissade

I think its pretty funny that we climbed the wrong mountain and in all honesty, I’m glad we did. When I saw with my own eyes the magnitude of this route, I think it would have taken too much out of me to this close to the Vermont 100, my “A” race for the season. So with that, I had a great time with my friends and got a killer workout at altitude amongst some of the most beautiful scenery my eyes have ever seen. Kam and I are already planning our next attempt for August and this time, we plan to bivy at the base of the real Thunderbolt Peak on Day 1 and then take on the full route and the descent on Day 2. More details on that in late July.

!http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2676/3688287334_d397daec7c.jpg|height=500|alt=Bishop Pass|width=375|src=http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2676/3688287334_d397daec7c.jpg!

Next up, the Vermont 100 Mile Endurance Run on 7/18 – 7/19 I fly out Thursday to celebrate my 26th birthday with family and friends this weekend and then make my way up north to get ready to race. I’ll post updates on the go and a recap here following the event. Thanks again for joining me on all these adventures!

[Watch the Slideshow | http://www.flickr.com/photos/tobyguillette/sets/72157620820675857/show/]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tobyguillette/3688311642/!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3545/3688311642_c0f9cbc8ed.jpg|height=375|alt=Palisades 176|width=500|src=http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3545/3688311642_c0f9cbc8ed.jpg!

Pulling Harder on Mount Whitney

Active Toby — Thu, 22 Jan 2009 19:44:14 GMT

Mount Whitney rests at 14,505 feet above sea level, making it the highest summit in the contiguous United States and a highly coveted ascent to hikers and climbers alike. There are multiple routes to the top ranging from day hike to alpine ascent.

In the video below, my good friend Albert Yu-Min Lin and his climbing partner Charles Ince, embarked upon what may have been the first winter “ukulele” ascent of Mount Whitney’s East Face. Enjoy this one-of-a-kind video of that climb…

[Whitney East Face Winter Climb | http://vimeo.com/] from Albert Lin on Vimeo .

They made it look easy, didn’t they? What about you – what would you bring with you to the top?

Check out more punishment reports from the Pullharder.org crew at www.pullharder.org

Slideshow

Active Toby — Sat, 16 Feb 2008 00:26:27 GMT

These are some of my favorite pictures taken last year. Enjoy the show!

!http://widget-f9.slide.com/p1/1369094286724936953/un_t025_v000_s0un_f00/images/xslide1.gif|ismap=ismap|src=http://widget-f9.slide.com/p1/1369094286724936953/un_t025_v000_s0un_f00/images/xslide1.gif|border=0! !http://widget-f9.slide.com/p2/1369094286724936953/un_t025_v000_s0un_f00/images/xslide2.gif|ismap=ismap|src=http://widget-f9.slide.com/p2/1369094286724936953/un_t025_v000_s0un_f00/images/xslide2.gif|border=0!</div></div>

Palisade Traverse: Snowed-out

Active Toby — Wed, 17 Oct 2007 20:24:00 GMT

My climbing partner, Gil (aka Mountainroad) and I attempted the Palisade Traverse this past weekend which began with a 5.5-mile approach-hike from South Lake trailhead (9,755 feet elevation) on Friday morning. The trail was well-maintained and we acclimated by sleeping in the parking lot the night before, allowing us to hold a quick pace from the start. It began to snow when we reached Long Lake and continued to snow for the remainder of the hike until we reached Bishop Pass (11,960 feet). We knew snow was in the forecast, but didn’t realize it would start so early in the day. The snow let up while establishing base camp (12,200 feet) just below the chute to Thunderbolt Peak, which we planned to ascend at 4:30 a.m. the next morning.

While replenishing our water supply in an alpine lake, the sky became a darker gray and the snow began to fall again, but this time at a heavier rate with steady accumulation. As soon as the sun set, the temperature dropped to the high-20s, giving me the opportunity to fully appreciate the warmth of my brand-new zero-degree down sleeping bag (Thanks, Mom and Dad!).

By morning, a fresh foot of powder blanketed everything in sight, including the chute to Thunderbolt peak, the first on our list of peaks for the Palisade Traverse. It was obvious at this point that we were snowed-out because the route would be too dangerous to negotiate.

Immediately, our focus shifted to staying warm, so we quickly broke-down our camp and packed our bags for the descent. The sun had yet to crest the ridge and it was still frigid. The hike back to the car was gorgeous. We were in a winter wonderland and were motivated by the thoughts of a hearty breakfast at Jack’s Restaurant in Bishop.

After our meal, we headed across the street and rented a bouldering crash pad from Wilson's Eastside Sports for $10 to use at The Buttermilks, a world-class rock climbing area. A crash pad breaks a climber’s fall when climbing without a rope no more than 20-feet in height. It’s the duty of the spotter to redirect the trajectory of a falling climber, so they land on the crash pad and not the ground.

Gil and I climbed in the warmth of the sun at The Buttermilks for the rest of the day. When the sun dropped behind the front range of the Sierra Nevada we set up camp nearby. I’ve crafted an Active Video from my weekend adventure using pictures, video clips and music composed by my manager, Rob Costlow. Enjoy!

Gearing up for the Palisades

Active Toby — Wed, 10 Oct 2007 19:56:00 GMT

Planning and preparation is the key to a successful mountaineering experience. For a trip of this magnitude, my climbing partner, Gil aka mountainroad and I collaborate through a chain of emails that cover specifics such as gear, weather forecast, meal plan and travel logistics.

The recent snowfall in the Sierra and the 20 to 30 percent chance for more on Friday changes our done-in-a-day plan to a three-day expedition. We’ll use our first day to approach the climb via Bishop Pass. The approach is relatively straight-forward, probably 3,000 feet of elevation gain. The second day, we’ll do the traverse and the third day, hike out and drive home.

I always take a mental note of something that I would like to improve from one trip to the next. My latest example of this is a departure from conventional prepackaged dehydrated meals to couscous and individually packaged, pre-marinated chicken breast. My former meal plan was quick and convenient, but couscous prepares just as fast. The taste of my new method is unmatched. I find it easier to digest than any dehydrated meal, and there are no "crunchies" left at the bottom of the bag where water did not seep. Couscous has versatility, a fine quality to have in the mountains, and a welcomed guest at mealtime. You can throw in a packaged meat or fish, sun dried tomatoes, spices, and if you are lucky, a freshly caught fish from an icy mountain creek.

I’ve included a list of essential gear for this trip. If you have any questions, please included a comment on my blog and I’ll be happy to reply. I’m looking forward to sharing this experience with you all next week, upon our safe return.

Gear list:

rope, slings, passive gear (nuts/hexes), cordalette

climbing harness, ATC, 2 locking carabineers

helmet

winter boots

crampons, ice axe, winter gaiters

climbing shoes

trekking poles

soft shell pants

base layer pants

top layers: mid-weight under armor, fleece, synthetic down jacket, waterproof shell

warm socks, liner socks, extra pair of both

liner gloves, winter gloves

warm hat

sunglasses

tent

sleeping bag, pad

Optional: hand warmers, balaclava

Food/Hydration:

Cooking gear: Jetboil stove, new fuel canister, utensils

Water in 1.75 liter nalgene bottle and collapsible nalgene canteen

Iodine pills and EmergenC

Friday--

Breakfast at the trailhead

Lunch all day

Dinner---Couscous to share and a package of chicken/fish for each of us

Saturday

Breakfast before dawn in the tent---oatmeal and hot drink (very cold morning)

Snacks to climb with

Dinner---Ramen, packaged protein, cheese

Sunday

Breakfast whenever we wake up---whatever

Snacks to hike down with

Lunch/Dinner in Big Pine/Lone Pine or a decent meal waiting for us in the car.

Traversing the Palisades

Active Toby — Fri, 05 Oct 2007 22:56:00 GMT

In my last few entries, I’ve alluded to an upcoming mountaineering expedition called the Palisade Traverse, where I will attempt to reach the summit of five 14,000-foot peaks in one day.

The Palisades are located in the heart of the Sierra Nevada and include seven mountains that top 14,000 feet. Home to half of the “fourteeners” in California, the Palisades are a mountaineering paradise, and for me and my climbing partner, our very own playground because of its easy access to home base in San Diego.

Thunderbolt Peak (14,003), Starlight Peak (14,200), North Palisade (14,242), Polemonium Peak (14,080), Mount Sill (14, 153).

Rapid elevation gain, a strenuous approach to and from the base of the climb, and approximately 18 hours of constant negotiation of Alpine terrain will make this journey less a test of technical rock climbing skill and more a test of mental and physical toughness from sustained exposure to the elements.

I’d like to take a moment to thank you all for your feedback. Please continue to post comments, whether they are suggestions, questions or words of encouragement, as I am committed to enhancing Active Toby’s Adventure Blog and inspiring you to embark upon a journey of your own.

P.S. I will be equipped with a helmet cam during this next adventure to compile footage for my next Active Video installation. Special thanks to Dave A. and Marc V.

Rafting the Great Rivers Presentation

Active Toby — Wed, 26 Sep 2007 20:07:00 GMT

Last night I had the opportunity to meet one of the most accomplished mountain and river expedition leaders in the world. Pasquale Scaturro, a geophysicist, adventurer and expedition leader, has been exploring the far reaches of the planet for over 25 years.

Scaturro is best known for his recent IMAX film, Mystery of the Nile, which documented the first complete descent of the 3,260-mile Blue Nile and Nile River--from its source high in the mountains of Ethiopia to the Nile delta spilling into the Mediterranean Sea.

Scaturro’s three successful climbs of Mount Everest were not a part of the presentation, but I feel compelled to include them because he was the expedition leader for the National Federation of the Blind 2001 Everest Expedition, which made history when it put the first blind climber on the 29,035-foot summit of Mount Everest.

Scaturro’s presentation at REI was for a small audience, and the intimate setting offered an exciting element to the breathtaking slideshow. His pictures were coupled with personal stories of the river setting, rapids and geography, as well as the cultures of the people that live along the shores of wild rivers in South America and Africa, including the Bio Bio in Chile, and the Omo, Zambezi and Tekeze in Africa.

Scaturro included discussion of the drastic environmental and development changes that have taken place since his first visit to remote areas of northeastern Africa 11 years ago. As a river expedition leader, the construction of dams along the great rivers of the world concerns him the most. As one of the most knowledgeable people in the world on the subject, it is his belief that there will no longer be raft-able rivers because of the impending environmental pressures from energy companies looking to produce hydroelectric power.

I’m thrilled to have had the opportunity to speak with someone who not only shares a love for adventure and exploration, but has been at the forefront of some of the greatest expeditions of our time. To me, he is a role model with a proven commitment to dreaming big and overcoming insurmountable obstacles. After the show, I purchased my own copy of the Mystery of the Nile from Scaturro to watch when I’m confined to the couch on Saturday following the Noble Canyon 50K.

CA 14ers: Mount Russell

Active Toby — Tue, 11 Sep 2007 19:58:00 GMT

I woke at 3:30 a.m. to the beat of my heart working hard to counterbalance the altitude. I had been at sea level in San Diego less than a day ago and had just spent a restless night camped at 12,000 feet. My watch alarm was set to go off at 4 a.m., making me solely responsible for waking my three companions for our big day.

Our two-hour approach to get to the base of Mount Russell, the eighth-highest mountain in California, consisted of a 1,000-foot elevation gain that traversed a massive boulder-covered ridge. We marched through the darkness guided by the dim glow of our headlamps which we turned off when the sun’s rays finally crested the ridge and began to warm the bitter cold rock face.

Gil and I got organized and roped up while Jake and Albert started climbing the first pitch at 8:30 a.m. Albert and Jake went first because they would be moving faster while alternating who was on lead and who was following. The lead climber carefully places spring-loaded camming devices in the rock. When a spring-loaded trigger wire is pulled, it retracts to make the device narrower. This allows the climber to slide the unit inside a crack. When the trigger is released, the cams expand to fit the rock and then the rope is clipped into the device to prevent the climber from falling. Once the leader makes it to the top of the pitch, an anchor is set for the follower to begin removing the camming devices while climbing to where the leader is stationed.

Gil’s level of experience with leading routes far surpassed my limited knowledge, so it was quite simple: He would lead all seven pitches of the climb and I would follow. This was the most efficient means for our 1,000-foot rock climb to the 14,088-foot summit of Mount Russell.

We estimated the climb itself would take eight hours, providing ample time to think over each move and be as careful as possible. Gil was strong on lead all day as he negotiated each move and placement of gear in the rock.

We powered our way up each pitch, and remained calm and focused even when the freezing-cold hail storm closed in on us while fully exposed on pitch five. The winds and hail pinned us against the mountainside for an hour until the storm continued north through the Sierra Nevada.

This pitch was rated the hardest pitch of the day by the guide book. The fact that my hands were wet and numb made it a formidable challenge. I literally had to wipe the hail off of the rock in search of hand holds while climbing with a 20-pound backpack.

The panoramic view from the summit was impressive. Getting to the top was incredible but by no means the most challenging aspect of our day. It was five o’clock in the afternoon and we still had a 2,000-foot descent to our base camp through the massive boulder field. By the time we packed up base camp and began the 3,500-foot descent of Mount Whitney’s mountaineer’s route, it was 8:30 p.m. This was the most difficult part of our day—each lugging 45 pounds on our backs down what at the time seemed like an endless staircase of switchbacks into the darkness below. Arriving at the car by 11:30 p.m. was a great relief to the group as we all were showing signs of extreme exhaustion.

After nourishment from a local late-night diner, we began the final leg of our journey: a four-hour drive back to San Diego during which my watch alarm sounded for the second time that day. We all took turns driving to battle the severe onset of exhaustion and arrived home safely after our 26-hour day.

This was the first installment in my journey to climb all 15 peaks in California over 14,000 feet. Please watch my ActiveVideo and be sure to join me on my next journey. Active Toby