Mount Whitney rests at 14,505 feet above sea level, making it the highest summit in the contiguous United States and a highly coveted ascent to hikers and climbers alike. There are multiple routes to the top ranging from day hike to alpine ascent.

In the video below, my good friend Albert Yu-Min Lin and his climbing partner Charles Ince, embarked upon what may have been the first winter “ukulele” ascent of Mount Whitney’s East Face. Enjoy this one-of-a-kind video of that climb…

[Whitney East Face Winter Climb | http://vimeo.com/] from Albert Lin on Vimeo .

They made it look easy, didn’t they? What about you – what would you bring with you to the top?

Check out more punishment reports from the Pullharder.org crew at www.pullharder.org

Last night, I installed aero bars and a forward angled seat post to convert my road bike to a triathlon setup. I received some helpful tips from folks in the discussion boards so if you’re ever looking to make the switch, check out our dialogue: Road to Tri bike conversions.

Tomorrow morning, I’m meeting Airey and jesse@active for a 50-mile ride to test this new positioning. It’s going to be important to pay close-attention to my biomechanics because new muscles will be activated. There will be more stress on my neck, lower-back and hamstrings. I’m looking forward to the change in my training to prepare for the Ford Ironman 70.3 California.

I'm going to hit the lap pool on Sunday morning and enjoy another non-impact active recover/triathlon training session. Carrie Smith has kindly provided the following swim workout:

500 swim

8x50

300 swim

2x100

100 swim

The Avalon 50 took a lot out of me both physically and mentally. I’ve been resting all week, eating healthy and getting to sleep early each night. I’ve used the muscle stick for massage and a yoga class to salvage flexibility so my body has recovered from the soreness and my hips are no longer tight. Along with the physical repercussions, mentally, I’ve been in a slump all week and I’m finally beginning to come out of it. It’s hard to explain the way I’ve felt, but it’s actually been pretty depressing. It’s kind of scary for me because I am always so positive, no matter what, and this week has been a challenged to keep an upbeat attitude.

Despite the “runner’s low,” each day has been better than the last and I’ve used this time to reflect on my accomplishments in 2007 and also plan out 2008. This past year has been a dream--just look at this list of activities!

2008 is going to be a big year and I’m looking forward to sharing my experiences with you all. Over the course of this year, I am going to train and compete in effort to build my endurance for the main event in October: The San Diego 100.

Please join me for another awesome year in adventure!!!

2008 race preview:

Planning and preparation is the key to a successful mountaineering experience. For a trip of this magnitude, my climbing partner, Gil aka mountainroad and I collaborate through a chain of emails that cover specifics such as gear, weather forecast, meal plan and travel logistics.

The recent snowfall in the Sierra and the 20 to 30 percent chance for more on Friday changes our done-in-a-day plan to a three-day expedition. We’ll use our first day to approach the climb via Bishop Pass. The approach is relatively straight-forward, probably 3,000 feet of elevation gain. The second day, we’ll do the traverse and the third day, hike out and drive home.

I always take a mental note of something that I would like to improve from one trip to the next. My latest example of this is a departure from conventional prepackaged dehydrated meals to couscous and individually packaged, pre-marinated chicken breast. My former meal plan was quick and convenient, but couscous prepares just as fast. The taste of my new method is unmatched. I find it easier to digest than any dehydrated meal, and there are no "crunchies" left at the bottom of the bag where water did not seep.  Couscous has versatility, a fine quality to have in the mountains, and a welcomed guest at mealtime. You can throw in a packaged meat or fish, sun dried tomatoes, spices, and if you are lucky, a freshly caught fish from an icy mountain creek.

I’ve included a list of essential gear for this trip. If you have any questions, please included a comment on my blog and I’ll be happy to reply. I’m looking forward to sharing this experience with you all next week, upon our safe return.

Gear list:

rope, slings, passive gear (nuts/hexes), cordalette

climbing harness, ATC, 2 locking carabineers

helmet

winter boots

crampons, ice axe, winter gaiters

climbing shoes

trekking poles

soft shell pants

base layer pants

top layers: mid-weight under armor, fleece, synthetic down jacket, waterproof shell

warm socks, liner socks, extra pair of both

liner gloves, winter gloves

warm hat

sunglasses

tent

sleeping bag, pad

Optional: hand warmers, balaclava 

Food/Hydration:

Cooking gear:  Jetboil stove, new fuel canister, utensils

Water in 1.75 liter nalgene bottle and collapsible nalgene canteen

Iodine pills and EmergenC

Friday--

Breakfast at the trailhead

Lunch all day

Dinner---Couscous to share and a package of chicken/fish for each of us

Saturday

Breakfast before dawn in the tent---oatmeal and hot drink (very cold morning)

Snacks to climb with

Dinner---Ramen, packaged protein, cheese

Sunday

Breakfast whenever we wake up---whatever

Snacks to hike down with

Lunch/Dinner in Big Pine/Lone Pine or a decent meal waiting for us in the car.

I woke at 3:30 a.m. to the beat of my heart working hard to counterbalance the altitude. I had been at sea level in San Diego less than a day ago and had just spent a restless night camped at 12,000 feet. My watch alarm was set to go off at 4 a.m., making me solely responsible for waking my three companions for our big day.

Our two-hour approach to get to the base of Mount Russell, the eighth-highest mountain in California, consisted of a 1,000-foot elevation gain that traversed a massive boulder-covered ridge. We marched through the darkness guided by the dim glow of our headlamps which we turned off when the sun’s rays finally crested the ridge and began to warm the bitter cold rock face.

Gil and I got organized and roped up while Jake and Albert started climbing the first pitch at 8:30 a.m. Albert and Jake went first because they would be moving faster while alternating who was on lead and who was following. The lead climber carefully places spring-loaded camming devices in the rock. When a spring-loaded trigger wire is pulled, it retracts to make the device narrower. This allows the climber to slide the unit inside a crack. When the trigger is released, the cams expand to fit the rock and then the rope is clipped into the device to prevent the climber from falling. Once the leader makes it to the top of the pitch, an anchor is set for the follower to begin removing the camming devices while climbing to where the leader is stationed.

Gil’s level of experience with leading routes far surpassed my limited knowledge, so it was quite simple: He would lead all seven pitches of the climb and I would follow. This was the most efficient means for our 1,000-foot rock climb to the 14,088-foot summit of Mount Russell.

We estimated the climb itself would take eight hours, providing ample time to think over each move and be as careful as possible. Gil was strong on lead all day as he negotiated each move and placement of gear in the rock.

We powered our way up each pitch, and remained calm and focused even when the freezing-cold hail storm closed in on us while fully exposed on pitch five. The winds and hail pinned us against the mountainside for an hour until the storm continued north through the Sierra Nevada.

This pitch was rated the hardest pitch of the day by the guide book. The fact that my hands were wet and numb made it a formidable challenge. I literally had to wipe the hail off of the rock in search of hand holds while climbing with a 20-pound backpack.

The panoramic view from the summit was impressive. Getting to the top was incredible but by no means the most challenging aspect of our day. It was five o’clock in the afternoon and we still had a 2,000-foot descent to our base camp through the massive boulder field. By the time we packed up base camp and began the 3,500-foot descent of Mount Whitney’s mountaineer’s route, it was 8:30 p.m. This was the most difficult part of our day—each lugging 45 pounds on our backs down what at the time seemed like an endless staircase of switchbacks into the darkness below. Arriving at the car by 11:30 p.m. was a great relief to the group as we all were showing signs of extreme exhaustion.

After nourishment from a local late-night diner, we began the final leg of our journey: a four-hour drive back to San Diego during which my watch alarm sounded for the second time that day. We all took turns driving to battle the severe onset of exhaustion and arrived home safely after our 26-hour day.

This was the first installment in my journey to climb all 15 peaks in California over 14,000 feet. Please watch my ActiveVideo and be sure to join me on my next journey. Active Toby