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Active Toby's Adventure Blog

9 Posts tagged with the rock-climbing tag
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Slideshow

Posted by Active Toby Feb 15, 2008

These are some of my favorite pictures taken last year. Enjoy the show!

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2007 Review - 2008 Preview

Posted by Active Toby Jan 18, 2008

Last night, I installed aero bars and a forward angled seat post to convert my road bike to a triathlon setup. I received some helpful tips from folks in the discussion boards so if you’re ever looking to make the switch, check out our dialogue: Road to Tri bike conversions.

Tomorrow morning, I’m meeting Airey and jesse@active for a 50-mile ride to test this new positioning. It’s going to be important to pay close-attention to my biomechanics because new muscles will be activated. There will be more stress on my neck, lower-back and hamstrings. I’m looking forward to the change in my training to prepare for the Ford Ironman 70.3 California.

I'm going to hit the lap pool on Sunday morning and enjoy another non-impact active recover/triathlon training session. Carrie Smith has kindly provided the following swim workout:

500 swim
8x50
300 swim
2x100
100 swim

The Avalon 50 took a lot out of me both physically and mentally. I’ve been resting all week, eating healthy and getting to sleep early each night. I’ve used the muscle stick for massage and a yoga class to salvage flexibility so my body has recovered from the soreness and my hips are no longer tight. Along with the physical repercussions, mentally, I’ve been in a slump all week and I’m finally beginning to come out of it. It’s hard to explain the way I’ve felt, but it’s actually been pretty depressing. It’s kind of scary for me because I am always so positive, no matter what, and this week has been a challenged to keep an upbeat attitude.

Despite the “runner’s low,” each day has been better than the last and I’ve used this time to reflect on my accomplishments in 2007 and also plan out 2008. This past year has been a dream--just look at this list of activities!

1/13/2007 Owens River Gorge rock climbing/Lake Sabrina snowshoe
1/21/2007 Mount San Jacinto tramway hike to summit
2/10/2007 New Jack City rock climbing
2/17/2007 Mount Whitney MR attempt
3/31/2007 Lake Hodges 50-km ultra run
4/7/2007 Joshua Tree NP rock climbing
6/23/2007 Sequoia NP backpacking/Sawtooth Peak hike to summit
7/14/2007 TCSD Beginner Race 3000M/11M/2M
7/29/2007 Solana Beach Triathlon Relay
8/11/2007 Mt. Disappointment 50K/50M Ultra Run
8/25/2007 San Bernardino Traverse aka 9-Peak Traverse
9/1/2207 Yosemite NP backpacking hike to Half Dome
9/9/2007 Mt. Russell via Fish Hook Arête
9/20/2007 SDTC Aquathon 1000M/3Mile
9/22/2007 Joe Decker World's Fittest Man Boot camp workout
9/23/2007 La Jolla Cove 10-Mile Relay Swim
9/29/2007 Noble Canyon 50-km ultra run
10/17/2007 Kings Canyon NP/Buttermilks rock climbing
10/26/2007 Joshua Tree NP rock climbing
11/9/2007 Joshua Tree NP rock climbing
11/17/2007 Malibu Creek SP rock climbing
11/25/2007 Grand Canyon NP backpacking trip
12/9/2007 Joshua Tree NP/Boyscout trail run
12/16/2007 52-mile Penasquitos trail run


2008 is going to be a big year and I’m looking forward to sharing my experiences with you all. Over the course of this year, I am going to train and compete in effort to build my endurance for the main event in October: The San Diego 100.

Please join me for another awesome year in adventure!!!

2008 race preview:

1/12/2008 Avalon 50 Mile Ultra Run
2/9/2008 B&L 20KM TT Series
3/12/2008 B&L 20KM TT Series
3/29/2008 Ironman-70.3 Oceanside, CA
4/19/2008 Leona Divide 50 Mile Ultra Run
5/10/2008 PCT 50 Mile Ultra Run
6/8/2008 Teva Mountain Games 10KM Spring Runoff
6/29/2008 San Diego International Triathlon
9/29/2008 Noble Canyon 50KM Ultra Run
10/20/2008 San Diego 100 Mile Ultra Run

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Malibu Creek State Park

Posted by Active Toby Nov 20, 2007

I wrecked myself for two hours on Saturday morning with Joe Decker and his World's Fittest Man outdoor fitness class. Immediately following class, I went for a nine-mile run with a 7:30 pace in an effort to increase the volume of my training heading into the holiday season. I felt very strong through both workouts but ended up sleeping for three hours right after the run to recover. I took this as a sign that I still have a long way to go to condition myself for the Avalon 50, but the good news came on Sunday morning when I wasn't the least bit sore from my back-to-back training sessions.

I took a day-trip to Malibu Creek State Park on Sunday with a group of my climbing friends from San Diego. We climbed for a few hours, but at the end of the day, we ended up spending significantly more time driving than actually climbing. I'll spare you the details of the ordeal that ended up costing upwards of $200 and, worse yet, almost four-hours of our time, but it involved running over a screw and having to buy a new tire. This was increasingly dispiriting because I hadn't planned on driving but volunteered when our ride didn't show up. Not to be deterred, we still had fun climbing in a beautiful area of California that I hope to return to for further exploration.


Tomorrow I leave for Thanksgiving in Grand Canyon National Park. I'm really excited for this trip, mainly because my best friend from home is flying in to join me for this adventure. John arrives in San Diego at 1:15 a.m. tomorrow morning--his first trip to the west coast. John is in charge of the rental car and my duties this evening include preparing backpacking set-ups for both of us as well as food for our road trip. We're heading straight for the South Rim of the Grand Canyon and hope to be on the road no later than 2:30 a.m. on Wednesday. We should be at the Grand Canyon just after the ranger station opens where we hope to secure a backcountry permit. If we get authorized to camp at the bottom of the canyon, we'll take on the rim-to-rim-to-rim hike with an overnight or two by the Colorado River. If we are not able to get permits due to the heavy holiday traffic, our next option is to do the rim-to-river-to-rim hike in a day. We'll be ready for anything.

Happy Thanksgiving to you all--have a safe and pleasant holiday. Be sure to take lots of photos and check back next week to share with the community.

All the best, Active Toby

Here is my favorite photograph from the weekend:
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Joshua Tree Group Trip

Posted by Active Toby Nov 13, 2007

In anticipation of a busy three-day weekend in the park, our friend Austin left San Diego at 1 p.m. on Friday in route to Joshua Tree National Park. Austin, who had the day off, secured a campsite in Ryan Campground for the rest of us, who arrived just before 10 p.m. that night. Saturday morning, Gil and I climbed the large headstone next to our campsite before breakfast. At the top of the route, we met a climber from British Columbia who was on a climbing trip with his girlfriend from Italy. He snapped a few photos of us climbing which he promised to email to me. We invited them to join us that night at our campfire and they accepted the invitation.

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Photo by Gil Weiss

Gil and I returned to the group and started cooking breakfast. I like to call this meal the lumberjack special. This hearty concoction consists of two eggs, two sausage links, two strips of bacon, fresh guacamole and salsa inside a whole wheat tortilla wrap. When served with a banana, a glass of OJ and a mug of coffee, this meal will provide all the nourishment one needs before a day outdoors.


Our group, ranging from a first time camper and newbie climbers to skilled lead climbers, set off to hike, climb and explore the park. We climbed a series of routes in the morning as a group and split up around mid-day. I led a brief four-mile hike to the top of a 5,000-foot hilltop and returned to meet up with the group before the early nightfall. Austin and I prepared a buffet-style taco dinner for the group as the temperatures dropped, and we all gathered by the fire to keep warm.


Sunday morning we all were awake and cooking breakfast by 8 a.m. The temperature was much warmer compared to Saturday. After breakfast, we broke down our camp and set off to hike, climb and explore the park for the day. I took a bunch of photos of the native plant life and the beautiful scenery that the park has to offer. We left the park as the sun began to set and returned to San Diego by 9 p.m. on Sunday night.


This trip was filled with good people and entertaining activities in a beautiful setting. I can’t think of a better way to celebrate friendship and shared passion for the outdoors. I hope my words and pictures excite that inner-adventurer in all of you.

Until next time, Active Toby

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Active Videos

Posted by Active Toby Oct 29, 2007

Here is an Active Video from my recent rock climbing trip to Joshua Tree National Park:

Here is an Active video from the bike ride through the Anza-Borrego Desert:

To publish your very own Active Video, click here.

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My climbing partner, Gil (aka Mountainroad) and I attempted the Palisade Traverse this past weekend which began with a 5.5-mile approach-hike from South Lake trailhead (9,755 feet elevation) on Friday morning. The trail was well-maintained and we acclimated by sleeping in the parking lot the night before, allowing us to hold a quick pace from the start. It began to snow when we reached Long Lake and continued to snow for the remainder of the hike until we reached Bishop Pass (11,960 feet). We knew snow was in the forecast, but didn’t realize it would start so early in the day. The snow let up while establishing base camp (12,200 feet) just below the chute to Thunderbolt Peak, which we planned to ascend at 4:30 a.m. the next morning.

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While replenishing our water supply in an alpine lake, the sky became a darker gray and the snow began to fall again, but this time at a heavier rate with steady accumulation. As soon as the sun set, the temperature dropped to the high-20s, giving me the opportunity to fully appreciate the warmth of my brand-new zero-degree down sleeping bag (Thanks, Mom and Dad!).

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By morning, a fresh foot of powder blanketed everything in sight, including the chute to Thunderbolt peak, the first on our list of peaks for the Palisade Traverse. It was obvious at this point that we were snowed-out because the route would be too dangerous to negotiate.

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Immediately, our focus shifted to staying warm, so we quickly broke-down our camp and packed our bags for the descent. The sun had yet to crest the ridge and it was still frigid. The hike back to the car was gorgeous. We were in a winter wonderland and were motivated by the thoughts of a hearty breakfast at Jack’s Restaurant in Bishop.

After our meal, we headed across the street and rented a bouldering crash pad from Wilson's Eastside Sports for $10 to use at The Buttermilks, a world-class rock climbing area. A crash pad breaks a climber’s fall when climbing without a rope no more than 20-feet in height. It’s the duty of the spotter to redirect the trajectory of a falling climber, so they land on the crash pad and not the ground.

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Gil and I climbed in the warmth of the sun at The Buttermilks for the rest of the day. When the sun dropped behind the front range of the Sierra Nevada we set up camp nearby. I’ve crafted an Active Video from my weekend adventure using pictures, video clips and music composed by my manager, Rob Costlow. Enjoy!

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Traversing the Palisades

Posted by Active Toby Oct 5, 2007

In my last few entries, I’ve alluded to an upcoming mountaineering expedition called the Palisade Traverse, where I will attempt to reach the summit of five 14,000-foot peaks in one day.

The Palisades are located in the heart of the Sierra Nevada and include seven mountains that top 14,000 feet. Home to half of the “fourteeners” in California, the Palisades are a mountaineering paradise, and for me and my climbing partner, our very own playground because of its easy access to home base in San Diego.

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Thunderbolt Peak (14,003), Starlight Peak (14,200), North Palisade (14,242), Polemonium Peak (14,080), Mount Sill (14, 153).

Rapid elevation gain, a strenuous approach to and from the base of the climb, and approximately 18 hours of constant negotiation of Alpine terrain will make this journey less a test of technical rock climbing skill and more a test of mental and physical toughness from sustained exposure to the elements.

I’d like to take a moment to thank you all for your feedback. Please continue to post comments, whether they are suggestions, questions or words of encouragement, as I am committed to enhancing Active Toby’s Adventure Blog and inspiring you to embark upon a journey of your own.

P.S. I will be equipped with a helmet cam during this next adventure to compile footage for my next Active Video installation. Special thanks to Dave A. and Marc V.

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CA 14ers: Mount Russell

Posted by Active Toby Sep 11, 2007

I woke at 3:30 a.m. to the beat of my heart working hard to counterbalance the altitude. I had been at sea level in San Diego less than a day ago and had just spent a restless night camped at 12,000 feet. My watch alarm was set to go off at 4 a.m., making me solely responsible for waking my three companions for our big day.
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Our two-hour approach to get to the base of Mount Russell, the eighth-highest mountain in California, consisted of a 1,000-foot elevation gain that traversed a massive boulder-covered ridge. We marched through the darkness guided by the dim glow of our headlamps which we turned off when the sun’s rays finally crested the ridge and began to warm the bitter cold rock face.
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Gil and I got organized and roped up while Jake and Albert started climbing the first pitch at 8:30 a.m. Albert and Jake went first because they would be moving faster while alternating who was on lead and who was following. The lead climber carefully places spring-loaded camming devices in the rock. When a spring-loaded trigger wire is pulled, it retracts to make the device narrower. This allows the climber to slide the unit inside a crack. When the trigger is released, the cams expand to fit the rock and then the rope is clipped into the device to prevent the climber from falling. Once the leader makes it to the top of the pitch, an anchor is set for the follower to begin removing the camming devices while climbing to where the leader is stationed.
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Gil’s level of experience with leading routes far surpassed my limited knowledge, so it was quite simple: He would lead all seven pitches of the climb and I would follow. This was the most efficient means for our 1,000-foot rock climb to the 14,088-foot summit of Mount Russell.
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We estimated the climb itself would take eight hours, providing ample time to think over each move and be as careful as possible. Gil was strong on lead all day as he negotiated each move and placement of gear in the rock.

We powered our way up each pitch, and remained calm and focused even when the freezing-cold hail storm closed in on us while fully exposed on pitch five. The winds and hail pinned us against the mountainside for an hour until the storm continued north through the Sierra Nevada.
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This pitch was rated the hardest pitch of the day by the guide book. The fact that my hands were wet and numb made it a formidable challenge. I literally had to wipe the hail off of the rock in search of hand holds while climbing with a 20-pound backpack.

The panoramic view from the summit was impressive. Getting to the top was incredible but by no means the most challenging aspect of our day. It was five o’clock in the afternoon and we still had a 2,000-foot descent to our base camp through the massive boulder field. By the time we packed up base camp and began the 3,500-foot descent of Mount Whitney’s mountaineer’s route, it was 8:30 p.m. This was the most difficult part of our day—each lugging 45 pounds on our backs down what at the time seemed like an endless staircase of switchbacks into the darkness below. Arriving at the car by 11:30 p.m. was a great relief to the group as we all were showing signs of extreme exhaustion.
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After nourishment from a local late-night diner, we began the final leg of our journey: a four-hour drive back to San Diego during which my watch alarm sounded for the second time that day. We all took turns driving to battle the severe onset of exhaustion and arrived home safely after our 26-hour day.
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This was the first installment in my journey to climb all 15 peaks in California over 14,000 feet. Please watch my ActiveVideo and be sure to join me on my next journey. Active Toby

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Deep River Solo Movie

Posted by Active Toby Jul 18, 2007

This was from my trip "back east" for July 4th. I swam to this rock out-cropping and my brother took the pictures from his kayak. My parents watched from their pontoon boat but were too worried to get any closer. Do you know that feeling when you see a rock and you just have to climb it? Well anyways, enjoy the show!

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Active Toby

Member since: Jun 5, 2007

A resource for adventure created to inspire. First-hand trip reports, wild stories and ideas for excursions of your own. Questions about gear and trip planning are encouraged. Feel free to offer your stories and suggestions. Active Toby

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