The Palisades Traverse is a classic alpine ridge traverse that connects the summits of five of California's fourteen thousand foot peaks. My old climbing partner Gil and I attempted the route in October of 2007 and were snowed out during the night at the base of (what we thought was) Thunderbolt Peak (14,003').

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Alpine bouquet

Over the holiday weekend, me and my friends Jake and Kam were eager to give it a shot. We hit the road on Thursday around 2 p.m. and made the long drive up to Bishop. We tried to leave early enough but ended up hitting the holiday weekend traffic and arriving at South Lake trail head parking lot around 10 p.m. We set up our bivy in the parking lot and were asleep by 11 p.m. and two hours later, the alarm sounded and we were gearing up to hit the trail.

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Alpenglow

We were on the trail by 2:30  a.m. on Friday morning for the ~8-mile approach via Bishop Pass trail. We moved quickly through the darkness guided by the light of our headlamps, only making quick stops to shed/add layers and eat snacks. We hit some snow patches above 11,000’ and reached Bishop Pass and topped off our water from a mountain stream in Dusy Basin before the ascent of what we thought was Thunderbolt Peak…

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Jake, kicking steps for us

On the way up, we negotiated some fourth/fifth-class scrambling/climbing while one of our team members started to suffer from the altitude. We reached the first peak behind schedule, only to discover we were on the summit of Mount Agassiz (13,899’), one of the twenty highest peaks of California. From there, we could see across to Thunderbolt Peak, where we were supposed to be.

Yes folks, we climbed the wrong mountain.

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From right to left: Thunderbolt Peak, Starlight Peak, North Palisade, Polemonium Peak, Mt Sill

So behind schedule and off-route, we decided to pull the plug and head back to San Diego. Our down-climb was a blast, as we glissaded a 1000’ patch of snow which boosted our morale while saving time and energy which we really needed. We got back to the car at 6:30 p.m. making for a 16-hour day on our feet and then took on the 6-hour drive home after dinner in Bishop to arrive back in San Diego at 3 a.m. on Saturday. ~36 hours from sea level to 13,899’ and back--what a trip!

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Jake and Kam

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Kam, finishing her glissade

I think its pretty funny that we climbed the wrong mountain and in all honesty, I’m glad we did. When I saw with my own eyes the magnitude of this route, I think it would have taken too much out of me to this close to the Vermont 100, my “A” race for the season. So with that, I had a great time with my friends and got a killer workout at altitude amongst some of the most beautiful scenery my eyes have ever seen. Kam and I are already planning our next attempt for August and this time, we plan to bivy at the base of the real Thunderbolt Peak on Day 1 and then take on the full route and the descent on Day 2. More details on that in late July.

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Next up, the Vermont 100 Mile Endurance Run on 7/18 – 7/19 I fly out Thursday to celebrate my 26th birthday with family and friends this weekend and then make my way up north to get ready to race. I’ll post updates on the go and a recap here following the event. Thanks again for joining me on all these adventures!

[Watch the Slideshow | http://www.flickr.com/photos/tobyguillette/sets/72157620820675857/show/]

The last few weeks have been low-mileage rest weeks with a focus on putting the finishing touches on my training plan for the Vermont 100 Endurance Run and gearing up to start training next week!

The lessons I learned at the San Diego 100 Mile Endurance Run continue to help dial in my strategy for the VT100. The first item of business is fine-tuning my method of fueling, not the actual content of my fuel.

While I was running with a handheld bottle of Hammer Nutrition Sustained Energy mix and a Fuel Belt with Nuun electrolyte replacement tablets, my race crew was laboring over filling bottles and mixing powders all day and night.

By using a hydration backpack with a custom-made fuel by Infinit Nutrition, I remove the handheld bottle and the Fuel Belt from the equation. My special blend, “

Beast Mix

With an extra water reservoir, I can be drinking out of the one in my pack while the crew fills, mixes and chills the other. So when I come through an aid station, all the crew has to do is pull out the empty reservoir and replace it with the full one. This is going to save valuable time and energy for the team!

Here are a couple shots from my last two adventures:

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Camping and trekking in Joshua Tree National Park

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Relaxing in Scottsdale, AZ

Overview: After an incredible 11 months of training and competition, the off-season is here! Recovery from Silverman has been smooth and I’m super excited to explore Moab next week and return with clearer goals and intentions for 2009.

Silverman: The recovery process has been minimal; Achilles tendons were swollen for a few days after the race but besides that, all systems are good to go. Despite feeling well physically, I continue to pass on opportunities to join friends who are training and working out. I need the psychological break in routine because I know: 1.) run mileage will ramp up significantly in mid-January and 2.) 2009 is going to be as big if not bigger than this year.

Moab: This year’s Thanksgiving road trip destination is Moab in Southeast Utah. The tradition started  in 2005 with a backpacking trip in Zion Nat’l Park and last year in Grand Canyon Nat’l Park. Unfortunately the forecast calls for rain. We’ll see what changes over the weekend. My main concern is flash flooding in the canyons where we’ll be backpacking. Either way, the plan is to be all geared up and make safe game time decisions based on the conditions. I’ll be sure to send mobile updates along the way but am looking forward to stepping off the grid as well. I hope you all have a great Thanksgiving holiday where/however you choose to celebrate.

Recap: Following a break-through year of training and competition, it’s really important I recover both physically and psychologically. It’s also important to address some of the physical imbalances that are inherent with a full multisport season. We’ll get more into that after the Thanksgiving break so I’ll catch you all back here after the holiday. Make it a great one! ~Toby

Last night, I installed aero bars and a forward angled seat post to convert my road bike to a triathlon setup. I received some helpful tips from folks in the discussion boards so if you’re ever looking to make the switch, check out our dialogue: Road to Tri bike conversions.

Tomorrow morning, I’m meeting Airey and jesse@active for a 50-mile ride to test this new positioning. It’s going to be important to pay close-attention to my biomechanics because new muscles will be activated. There will be more stress on my neck, lower-back and hamstrings. I’m looking forward to the change in my training to prepare for the Ford Ironman 70.3 California.

I'm going to hit the lap pool on Sunday morning and enjoy another non-impact active recover/triathlon training session. Carrie Smith has kindly provided the following swim workout:

500 swim

8x50

300 swim

2x100

100 swim

The Avalon 50 took a lot out of me both physically and mentally. I’ve been resting all week, eating healthy and getting to sleep early each night. I’ve used the muscle stick for massage and a yoga class to salvage flexibility so my body has recovered from the soreness and my hips are no longer tight. Along with the physical repercussions, mentally, I’ve been in a slump all week and I’m finally beginning to come out of it. It’s hard to explain the way I’ve felt, but it’s actually been pretty depressing. It’s kind of scary for me because I am always so positive, no matter what, and this week has been a challenged to keep an upbeat attitude.

Despite the “runner’s low,” each day has been better than the last and I’ve used this time to reflect on my accomplishments in 2007 and also plan out 2008. This past year has been a dream--just look at this list of activities!

2008 is going to be a big year and I’m looking forward to sharing my experiences with you all. Over the course of this year, I am going to train and compete in effort to build my endurance for the main event in October: The San Diego 100.

Please join me for another awesome year in adventure!!!

2008 race preview:

Yet again, my Thanksgiving festivities took me down the road less traveled. Last year, I ventured to southern Utah, hiking and backpacking throughout Zion National Park. This year, Grand Canyon National Park was at the top of my list.

John’s flight from Boston arrived in San Diego at 1:15 a.m. on Wednesday, he was at my house at 2 a.m. and we were on the road by 3 a.m. Driving through the night was effortless with no traffic and perfectly straight highway. Our conversation kept us entertained as we made our way east into Arizona. John and I have been best friends since kindergarten and this was his first experience in the Wild West. We’ve done well at keeping in touch over the years and this adventure was our way of reuniting and celebrating our friendship.

Our first stop of the day was the backcountry permit office at the South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. We were denied a permit for Wednesday night, but secured Indian Garden campground for Thursday night followed by Bright Angel campground on Friday night. Since we weren’t beginning our descent until the following morning, John and I cruised through the park and snapped a bunch of photos from the overlooks. We were both extremely fatigued from pulling an ‘all-nighter’ so we made our way out of the back entrance of the park and into the Kaibab National Forest where car camping is free.

Although temperatures dipped into the 20’s Wednesday night, this was the coldest weather we encountered because it actually gets warmer as you descend the canyon, causing us to shed layers while en route to Indian Garden campground. We arrived at our designated campground quite effortlessly, overtaking all shapes and sizes of travelers and tourists along the way. With our tent set up and permit visible to park rangers, we consolidated our gear to daypacks and set off on a hike to a plateau overlooking the Colorado River. As we approached the lookout area, a solo hiker informed us of his encounter with a California Condor. I immediately broke-out my camera and got into Steve Erwin-mode. The next twenty minutes made our 1,300-mile road trip worth every second.

Thanksgiving dinner consisted of precooked turkey from the market in the park village paired with instant garlic mashed potatoes. We sliced and diced the turkey and added the potatoes into my Jetboil cooking system to warm them. This was a slight improvement from the classic turkey sandwich I ate with my feet dangling off the edge of Zion’s Angel’s Landing. Check out the picture from last year:

The next morning, John and I arrived at the Colorado River by 8:30 a.m. This is when we decided to change our plans for the next stage of the trip. Since we had arrived to the river where our next campsite was located so quickly, we made the decision to hike the rest of the way out of the canyon. We consulted our map and searched for a trial that would allow us to return to the South Rim without back-tracking over terrain that we had already covered. While discussing our plan, we met a day-hiker named Jordan that had left the South Rim at 4 a.m. and was planning to ascend the South Kaibab trial. After further discussion of trail options, Jordan had invited us to join him and offered to drive us back to our car at the Bright Angel trailhead. This was exactly what John and I were hoping to do—hike all the way out, not cover any of the same terrain and not worry about getting back to our vehicle. The three of us set off from the Colorado River, ascending the Grand Canyon via the South Kaibab trial. This was a challenging hike because of our weighted packs and the countless switch-back trials but it was by no means difficult. We were out of the canyon a little more than four hours later and extremely satisfied with our experience and our decision to push ourselves to finish off the hike.

Somewhere during our ascent, I came up with the idea for the next stage of our adventure— Joshua Tree National Park in California. I had told John of my many camping and climbing trips to this park, but words and pictures still do little to describe its unique beauty. After pizza at the village market, we were back on the road. Our drive out of the park and through the National Forests while the sun was setting continued to add to the experience. We had to come to a stop when three Rocky Mountain Elk darted across the road.

The drive to Joshua Tree was tiresome and John and I took turns at the wheel to make sure we arrived safely to the park. We pulled into the south entrance late on Friday night and took the first campsite we could find in Cottonwood campground, marking the end of an epic day. Early the next morning, strong Santa Ana winds shook the tent until we were awake. I made a quick batch of coffee in my Jetboil cooking system and began the 45-mile drive from the south end of the park towards the northwest entrance. We made a stop at Jumbo Rocks campground and scrambled around on the gigantic boulders until our stomachs demanded breakfast. Crossroads Café in the town of Joshua Tree remains a favorite after a hearty breakfast for the final leg of our road trip. As soon as we neared San Diego, I cut west to the coast and drove the remainder of the way into the city on route 101. The sun was shining bright over the ocean and it was 70 degrees. There’s nothing like returning to San Diego from an adventure. Thank you all for joining me--I hope you all had a fantastic Thanksgiving.

Yours in adventure,

Active Toby

In my last few entries, I’ve alluded to an upcoming mountaineering expedition called the Palisade Traverse, where I will attempt to reach the summit of five 14,000-foot peaks in one day.

The Palisades are located in the heart of the Sierra Nevada and include seven mountains that top 14,000 feet. Home to half of the “fourteeners” in California, the Palisades are a mountaineering paradise, and for me and my climbing partner, our very own playground because of its easy access to home base in San Diego.

Thunderbolt Peak (14,003), Starlight Peak (14,200), North Palisade (14,242), Polemonium Peak (14,080), Mount Sill (14, 153).

Rapid elevation gain, a strenuous approach to and from the base of the climb, and approximately 18 hours of constant negotiation of Alpine terrain will make this journey less a test of technical rock climbing skill and more a test of mental and physical toughness from sustained exposure to the elements.

I’d like to take a moment to thank you all for your feedback. Please continue to post comments, whether they are suggestions, questions or words of encouragement, as I am committed to enhancing Active Toby’s Adventure Blog and inspiring you to embark upon a journey of your own.

P.S. I will be equipped with a helmet cam during this next adventure to compile footage for my next Active Video installation. Special thanks to Dave A. and Marc V.

I’m set to depart San Diego on Friday after work with three companions for a high-altitude training session. We are doing a through-hike from the Angelus Oaks campground (6,000 feet) at the base of San Bernardino Mountain to the Vivian Creek trailhead parking lot at the base of Mount San Gorgonio. Our two vehicles will remain at the starting and finishing points of our 27-mile trek.

We’ll get started at 5 a.m. and tackle a 4,400-foot ascent to the summit of San Bernardino Mountain at 10,400 feet. Once we get to the ridge line, our journey continues eastward, traversing across the entire ridgeline of the San Bernardino Mountains, hence the “San Bernardino Traverse” or the “9 Peak Traverse” to Mount San Gorgonio which, at 11,500 feet, happens to be the highest peak in Southern California.

The final push is an eight-mile descent off of “San G” via the Vivian Creek trail. We should arrive at the second car roughly 10 hours, 27 miles and 8,000 feet in net elevation gain later. If all goes according to plan, we’ll be back in San Diego just after sunset. Here is a list of the peaks we will summit during our trek:

Angeles Oaks Trailhead

San Bernardino Peak

San Bernardino Peak East

Anderson Peak

Shield's Peak

Alto Diablo

Charlton Peak

Little Charlton Peak

Jepson Peak

Mount San Gorgonio

I completed this trek in June 2006 in 11 hours, 20 minutes. Here are two pictures from that journey. Stay tuned for a recap and pictures early next week.