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Click to view mparks312's profile Rookie 1 posts since
Jul 9, 2007

Feb 14, 2005 5:23 PM

How do I designate myself a Clydesdale?

I am 200+ and therefore eligible to be in the Clydesdale division, but don't ever see a place for me to enter this information when registering online. Anybody, please help!
Click to view Joe_H1's profile Community Moderator 1,072 posts since
Jul 9, 2007
1. Feb 14, 2005 5:48 PM in response to: mparks312
they should be able to help you out
Click to view jjconway's profile Rookie 2 posts since
Jul 9, 2007
2. Feb 28, 2005 5:30 PM in response to: mparks312
What kind of bike do you use? I'm looking for a Clydesdale friendly one.
Click to view Joe_H1's profile Community Moderator 1,072 posts since
Jul 9, 2007
3. Mar 4, 2005 7:33 AM in response to: mparks312
just get one that fits you and have the bike shop fit it to you and you'll be fine
Click to view meanderer1's profile Amateur 12 posts since
Jul 9, 2007
4. May 3, 2005 12:33 AM in response to: mparks312
To the original question, a lot of races don't have a Clydesdale division, so us big guys are out of luck. We have to race against all the skinnies....
Click to view captgravity's profile Rookie 2 posts since
Jun 12, 2008
5. Jun 12, 2008 7:01 AM in response to: jjconway

I am a Clydesdale myself, and I can tell you what works for me. It's actually easier to tell you what does not work. The most important thing is to go with the more reliable parts instead of the lightweight parts. Some parts, like Campy Record/Chorus/Daytona and Shimano Dura-Ace/Ultegra/105, manage to do both. A lot of replacement parts offer strength or lightweight or look good but not all three at once.

An ultralight carbon fiber or aluminum frame is probably not for you, nor is an ultralight set of wheels. Titanium is most likely to offer the best ride yet still be able to survive the long haul. Next best choice would be the generic Kinesis welded aluminum frame used by lots of manufacturers. The same frame is available in Chinese clone form from lots of other manufacturers. I have a friend who is a bike store service manager and gifted wheel builder. My favorite wheels of the sets he has built for me have Shimano Ultegra hubs, Mavic Open Pro rims, and DT 14 guage straight spokes. The spokes are tensioned pretty close to their maximum to get a good ride and adequate deuability.

I typically buy a major manufacturer's bike in my size and then swap out parts until I get a mix that works well and looks good. Some times it takes a couple tries before things work, fit, and look good.

Like every other size of rider, Clydesdales need to be fitted properly. We usually wear clothing that is too loose for better freedom of movement, or too tight out of some misplaced sense of denial. A bike has to fit properly or it's just miserable.

Click to view JacobBunner's profile Pro 75 posts since
Sep 25, 2007
6. Jun 19, 2008 2:56 PM in response to: captgravity

I race as a 200 lb clydesdale and am considering buying zipp wheels. Why wouldn't clydesdales want aero wheels? I am not being smart, I don't have any triathlon friends and haven't heard this position before.

I race in HFP races for triathlon in their clydesdale division. They call it built 2XL. I have also seen it called cruiser division by other race managment company.

Click to view Thomas Gal's profile Rookie 2 posts since
Oct 10, 2007
7. Jun 19, 2008 3:16 PM in response to: mparks312

If it's available, you'll see it.

Even pro's battle with extra weight, so you have 2 options:

1) Lose weight (eat less, or stop lifting huge weights)

2) Do a 100% flat triathlon like the Chicago Accenture Tri


Of just enter a race and kick your own ***!

Winters, I usually weigh over 200lbs. til I do Wildflower and the hills make me want to be a lean mean racing machine. It's good motivation.

Click to view captgravity's profile Rookie 2 posts since
Jun 12, 2008
8. Jun 19, 2008 7:13 PM in response to: JacobBunner

I had a set of really light wheels once. They were handbuilt and really nice but needed serious

truing every few hundred miles. The ones I ride now need only a touchup every couple thousand

miles.

There are a couple of ways to answer this question; the simplest

is to look at the manufacturer's warranty. Most of the really light stuff has a weight limit right on

the tag. My logic is - if they don't want to warrant it for a heavy rider then I don't want to be

depending on it. After that it's primarily an engineering design and metallurgy problem.

The way a manufacturer makes light wheels is to use less material; that ought to be

obvious. There are a limited number of spots in a wheel where weight can be cut once

you get past the really cheap wheels. The primary places to look for weight savings would

be in the rim and then the spoke nipples since those areas have a strong impact on

overall weight and on rotating mass. Rims are pretty well optimized (once you get past

the cheap wheels) so weight loss means less material means less strength. Additional

tempering or fancier alloys lead to brittle metals, so it is really tough to get ahead of that curve.