WD-40 is basically the same thing as ProLink. All these chain lubes that claim they clean and lube and come out as thin as water are basically 3 parts mineral spirits and 1 part oil. That is the formulation for ProLink and that is the formulation for WD-40. The main difference is ProLink cost about 5 times more that WD-40. The mineral spirits acts as a carrier to move the lube into the chain roller pins and then when it evaporates it leave a thin coating of oil. If you rub some WD-40 between your fingers after a while when the solvent evaporates you will feel the oily film on your fingers, same thing will happen with ProLink. WD-40 will act as a degreaser do to the solvent in the mixture but so will ProLink. Just rub some ProLink on road tar and it will dissolve it just like WD-40. They all attract dust, anything that contains oil will attract dust. The only thing that will not attract dust is wax, but then you have wax flaking off and it does not lubricate near as well as oil.

You can make your own "home brew" chain lube. Just mix 3 parts mineral spirits with 1 part of a good synthetic oil like Mobil 1.

O,

Thank you for taking the time to differentiate the ingrediants of Prolink v. WD40.  This comprehensive explanation was consistent with what I've understood to be the reasons shop mechanics in particular don't use WD 40 to lubricate a chain.

In the meantime, using a good prepackaged product is time effective too!

Thanks,

EJ

From the above the Pro-link looks indeed pretty similar to the WD40. "petroleum naphtha" is a sort of generic term to describe a petroleum distillate, that is both the solvent and the oil together  (which were split in the wd40 list). The hydrocarbon gas is the propellant (if WD40 is now using CO2, that's less polluting). All these spray-on thin penetrating lubricants are much the same. I don't use it on chains, but I use it on just about eveyrthing else (derailleurs, pedals, shifters) as it's easy to direct into the joints with the straw (before the straw gets lost).

For what it's worth I don't think the type of lube used is very important, I've used all sorts, some of which are thicker some are runnier, different degrees of stickiness. My unscientific obervation is that the wet type drip-on lubes seem to get in the chain and stay useful longest. Motor oil is actually fine, perhaps stickier than most bike lubes (picks up more dirt?).   These days we're using Finish Line Pro Road (got 3-pack cheap from NAshbar) with some sort of absurd suspended particles in it. Looks cool in the bottle. No matter what, one rainy ride, and the next day there are spots of rust on the chain and some links are a bit stiff.

The most important aspect of chain lubrication is to clean the chain first! Yes, it's highly irritating. I've taken to using one of those gadgets with the rotating brushes and the citrus solvent reservoir-- does most of the job for a fraction of the effort.

If you live in the city, pour your wash up waste in the house drain (yes take it inside) for disposal and don't pour it down the storm sewer.

Stop right there! What are you saying? You use a solvent to lube parts of you bike when grease is the only correct answer. Solvents dissolve grease. You are trying to lube parts that do not need any help from you over several years use. When they do need service, it is time for an overhaul. Puting a solvent into them makes the grease into a liquid that will no longer stay on the parts (balls). The rule is: if the part has ball bearings, the ONLY lube for it is grease. The chain and sometimes cables are the only parts that ask you for regular liquid lube. The key to not having to clean them every time is to just barely let the lube wear off and therefore drop the dirt before you re-lube.

Spray lubes for the chain are just wrong. You may have good aim, but overspray is a huge problem. Get one drop on the rims and your brake pads will pick it up and suffer noise and loss of stopping power. Get less than a drop on you disk rotors and you will really suffer! Pads are not cheap, so use a drip bottle.

I have been a professional mechanic for decades. I tell eveyone of my customers this info. They are shown the disguised can of WD-40 I use only as a parts cleaner. It is now seven years old and still half full.

Getting the lube inside the chain on the pins under the rollers is the main goal. Good lubes are chosen for your conditions. (dry, wet, sandy, road, mountain, etc.)

I have tested and like: Triflow wet or dry formulas, T-9 Boeshield and am trying the new Ice Wax2.

I do not like after much testing: WD-40, GT-85, Ice Wax original, White Lightning.

I could go on... No Spray! Drip bottles only!!!!!

I own a spray can of T-9 for those times I need to put a bit in a place that gravity fights my application. That can lasts for about 6 months to a year in my shop setting. I do rarely have to lube the pulleys on bikes that squeak when shifting if they don't have sealed bearings but  top end bikes have sealed bearings that will never need much help from us. If they don't squeak, they do not need lube. Anything you lube that dose not need it will now be collecting dirt needlessly.

I guess I should admit, that if I am about to toss a part in the can, I may try a "very little" solvent type lube in hopes of softening the old grease enough to have some "run" back onto the bearings. It is a last ditch effort and if the customer has been using solvents on the part in the past, it will not work. 

T-9 comes in a drip bottle large or small. I take the small one with me on rides to help those that need it.  (for my benifit) I can't stand noisy riders in the woods. I wish I could quiet those chainsaw like rear hubs too. Oh no, there I go again!     Sorry.

White Lightning killed my fleet of 35 Austin Police Dept.  bike's chains in 3 months.

Many years ago, I watched my mentor destroy a bitchy customer's bike by "filling it up" with WD -40. He used it as a retaliation weapon. He got the last laugh. Need I say more? 

Jerry

It is good to be environmentally compliant!  I hope we all do our best. I often do my tune work at home on the porch which is really outside or on the grass. Not much left over fluids to contend with and the grass seems to survive.  I usually use some sort of citrus degreaser for chain cleaning and mild soap and water to clean the bike so not much spill over there. Good advise overall.

And Doc! Thanks for the perspective. I have that little T-9 bottle too. What drives me crazy are handle bars with out plugs in them on road or mtn bikes. I usually carry spares with me so no one punctures a thigh.  Racers take note, no bar end plug on your road bike and you may not be allowed to start a race. 

I was told years ago that one should grease the pulleys and could not figure out how to do it. I feel a little more relaxed now. Thanks!

I lived in Austin for a short time 10 years ago.  It was fun. I lived in the north east and would ride to Flugerville (pardon my spelling!) The roads are all rhomboids and not gridded out. It was fun heading out in the evening for about an hour with only an hour and a half to ride having then the need to get back in 30 minutes what took me an hour to ride out.  So I'd come back in the dark with only a rear blinker.  The drivers in the Austin area were great. No one honked at me in six weeks.    My favorite day ride was out near Dripping Springs as I hit over 50 mph that day on one descent. I've never done that even once in my riding here in Michigan. We have hills, some pretty good ones too but the high 40's is all I can muster.  When there I rode with a club called Violet Crown.  Even did one of their races at a fair grounds I think on Labor Day. 

I hooked up with a guy who said the route near Dripping Springs was one of Lance's favorites. At one corner that we went by he said that was the route Lance rode. I asked how far it was and it added about 26 miles to our 50 plus route. He was upset when I insisted we do the real deal...  I told him, I didn't go all that way to NOT do Lances route!

Have fun all. 

EJ 

And I suppose the squeaky wheel gets the grease!

Good morning!

IceWax2 in Florida!  Something of an oxymoron.

Keep us informed regarding your tests. I had been using Prolink but only on my track bike's chain and now use it on my road bikes as well. I haven't tried it on mtn bikes or cross bike yet but I am not doing as much off roading these days. Mostly longer dirt roads/pathways to miss the traffic.

Stay cool!

EJ

I think I have several referrals for you from the Tampa area... What is the name of your shop?

Chain-L#5 lube your chain avery 1000K miles and call it a day.The most advanced chain lube out there. I use it on my recumbent V-Rex. its amazing. Check it out..