Krytox was developed for NASA during the space race - I think in the late 50's - really was just do darn expensive to sell to anyone else, and gradually the aerospace community started using the stuff (it has much better 4 ball and load wear index than any pet based oil or grease), and now it is available (although still pretty expensive) to the public.  Remember that grease is just oil with a thickener, most conventional stuff uses lithium or clay or soaps, and that the oil will separate from the thickener in a fairly short time frame.  Nye builds a Uniflor series that is even better than the Krytox, but harder to get ahold of, and another step up in cost - but, if you run a 100 dollar chain and a 200 dollar cluster and 200 dollar chain rings, the cost of the grease is pretty minimal.  My daily is about ready to get a new chain after 6000 miles, and I beat on the thing pretty hard (plus, I live in Minnesota, where we get nasty conditions often) - just rebuilt the freewheel, and am going to install a new chainring on it also. 

Boeshield and Boelube are re-branded stuff from Mobil (Gargoyles mostly) Shell and Dupont (the white Boelube is Krytox).  Glad you have access - great stuff.  I have parts all over your airframes.

If you want to see what real bearing people use on their bearings, check out NHBB's website sometime - they have a number of in stock lubes and oils, the Chatsworth facility is where gyro and dental motor guys get their bearings.

I measure the chain to tell how often to replace - my chain wear is significantly less than most of the people  I ride with - see 4 ball and load wear index information about why - 20 bucks worth of good lube (and good cleaning) seems to be a pretty good trade.  I ride Wipp**** chains for the most part, but I have an S** on one bike and some Cam***** and Reg*** chains that alo show the sameresults.

Finish Line products are all good. However, you have not provided enough information to give an answer for "you". For instance, I ride in sand a lot and it would not be good for my mountain bike. It is only good when used in the right conditions.

The wet lube is something for humid conditions, and will pick up dust and dirt in dry.  If you are riding pretty much in said conditions, I think it's probably good lube.   Try it, and see how it holds up.

Pro Link Pro Gold is the best. Put a drop on each link after every ride and wipe the chain down. The new lube drives out the old gunk. It penetrates the metal keeps everything slick.

I used to use ProLink but have switched to T-9 Boeshield. My chain would always have lot of gunk on it after about 200 mi. riding when using ProLink. With Boeshield I do not get the gunk so I am sold on the product.

My local REI carries Boeshield, ProLink, Tri-Flow, Pedro's and Finish LIne.  When I stop in to pick up some lube they usually only have one or two bottles of Boeshield and plenty of the other brands. The bike mechanic at REI said Boeshield was their best seller, they had trouble keeping it on the shelf. Seems to me that once a rider uses it he is sold on it. One poster says it cost twice as much as ProLink. At REI ProLink is $8.50 and Boeshield is $9.00. Both are 4 oz. bottles.

John

I remove my chain, clean it thoroughly, roll it up and gently drop it into a coffee can of melted paraffin, the kind you find with canning supplies. I melt the parafin in the coffee can in a pan of boiling water (much safer than heating the can directly). I swish the paraffin around for a few minutes, take the can outside and then carefully lift the chin out with whtever tool I have. After it is cool enough to touch I wipe if off with a towel and reinstall. I ride less than 2000 miles per year and lube my chain twice a year. Low tech? You bet. Effective? Very. Green? I've been using the same coffee can for the past eight years.